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<blockquote data-quote="swampratt" data-source="post: 3101188" data-attributes="member: 15054"><p>I learned a lot from my Uncle Ralph.. he raced stockcars against The King and others and when i was in diapers or before that. </p><p></p><p>He wrote a letter to Sealed Power and asked them what the best surface finish was to seat their Molly rings.</p><p>They wrote back and the answer was : You know that 100,000 mile polish that looks shiny and golden from oil seasoned into the cylinder walls that is the best surface to seat our molly rings.</p><p></p><p>Yep.</p><p>He said when he pulled engines apart and seen a good looking cylinder wall he would not touch it.. he would slap a set of the E251K rings in them and go. Those rings fit many 4" and close to 4" bore engines.</p><p></p><p>Those rings are not the same as they used to be.. ones today look like they were cobbled together by blind children.</p><p>Coating looks horrible and no up or down on the top ring and not the same oil expander.</p><p></p><p>Best core engines I would get came from running old cars from auctions or bargain post ..way before craigslist.</p><p>Used to be able to buy a 120 dollar car and drive it home.. pull the SBC from it and the trans and sell other parts then scrap the body and put money in the bank.</p><p></p><p>I do 2 break in periods for flat tappet cams usually 20-30 minutes each. I use Joe Gibbs break-in oil also.</p><p>Then use another good oil for runing ..not much Zinc in oils on the shelf today and they are always changing the formulas.</p><p>VR racing is still good Gibbs has their hot rod oil and a really good LS oil.</p><p></p><p>Keep open valve spring pressures under 300 and you will be good. 345 open on race stuff for flat tappets being max.</p><p>Well for me and the cam and lifters I run.. You can go more with special cams.</p><p></p><p>I found the old school lobes like the comp magnum and high energy do not require a lot of spring pressures.. especially if you keep the valves light and stock 1.5 ratios for rockers.</p><p>You can run 80 closed seat pressure and 280 open and still run a lot of RPM.</p><p></p><p>Big block chevy with say the 280H and up require a heavier spring but we are not talking BBC here.</p><p>Some quick rate cam profiles may want more spring pressure ..I have not ran those as the old "lazy" cams work fine for me.</p><p></p><p>Crower or howards lifters are good ones. basically a good Delphi or johnson lifter</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="swampratt, post: 3101188, member: 15054"] I learned a lot from my Uncle Ralph.. he raced stockcars against The King and others and when i was in diapers or before that. He wrote a letter to Sealed Power and asked them what the best surface finish was to seat their Molly rings. They wrote back and the answer was : You know that 100,000 mile polish that looks shiny and golden from oil seasoned into the cylinder walls that is the best surface to seat our molly rings. Yep. He said when he pulled engines apart and seen a good looking cylinder wall he would not touch it.. he would slap a set of the E251K rings in them and go. Those rings fit many 4" and close to 4" bore engines. Those rings are not the same as they used to be.. ones today look like they were cobbled together by blind children. Coating looks horrible and no up or down on the top ring and not the same oil expander. Best core engines I would get came from running old cars from auctions or bargain post ..way before craigslist. Used to be able to buy a 120 dollar car and drive it home.. pull the SBC from it and the trans and sell other parts then scrap the body and put money in the bank. I do 2 break in periods for flat tappet cams usually 20-30 minutes each. I use Joe Gibbs break-in oil also. Then use another good oil for runing ..not much Zinc in oils on the shelf today and they are always changing the formulas. VR racing is still good Gibbs has their hot rod oil and a really good LS oil. Keep open valve spring pressures under 300 and you will be good. 345 open on race stuff for flat tappets being max. Well for me and the cam and lifters I run.. You can go more with special cams. I found the old school lobes like the comp magnum and high energy do not require a lot of spring pressures.. especially if you keep the valves light and stock 1.5 ratios for rockers. You can run 80 closed seat pressure and 280 open and still run a lot of RPM. Big block chevy with say the 280H and up require a heavier spring but we are not talking BBC here. Some quick rate cam profiles may want more spring pressure ..I have not ran those as the old "lazy" cams work fine for me. Crower or howards lifters are good ones. basically a good Delphi or johnson lifter [/QUOTE]
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