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<blockquote data-quote="Shadowrider" data-source="post: 3191490" data-attributes="member: 3099">That&#039;ll do it.&nbsp; Just as long as you get it hot enough to expand enough to break the bond.&nbsp; I&#039;ve never seen heat fail on something like this.Another wild ass method that might work but is honestly a lot more work, is to arc weld a fat bead on the outside of the drum, just below the diameter of the pad/drum interface that&#039;s frozen together.&nbsp; You don&#039;t need or want to go all the way around, 1/4 to 1/3 will do it if it&#039;s going to work.&nbsp; The heat and force of the bead contracting will break the bond.I saw my FIL remove from my truck a roller transmission input shaft bearing that had cratered and lost the inner race and all the rollers leaving only the outer race pressed into my crankshaft this way. We took the flywheel off and he welded a bead on the crank flange just above the hub part which located the flywheel. We took it out with a seal pick. True story, I saw it with my own eyes. I had used all manner of pullers and chisels and that sucker wasn&#039;t coming out. I was like &quot;what friggen sorcery is this?&quot;&nbsp; I ground off the weld so the flywheel would locate back up true.&nbsp; If I had been able to access a lathe at work I could have turned a shaft to hammer on after packing the cavity with grease, but it was the weekend and I had to have it done by Monday to actually go to work.&nbsp; My FIL was an oilfield machinist.&nbsp; I thought he may have been a sorcerer for awhile.&nbsp; <img src="/images/smilies/biggrin.png"&nbsp; class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":D" title="Big Grin&nbsp; &nbsp; :D" data-shortname=":D" /></blockquote>

[QUOTE="Shadowrider, post: 3191490, member: 3099"] That'll do it. Just as long as you get it hot enough to expand enough to break the bond. I've never seen heat fail on something like this. Another wild ass method that might work but is honestly a lot more work, is to arc weld a fat bead on the outside of the drum, just below the diameter of the pad/drum interface that's frozen together. You don't need or want to go all the way around, 1/4 to 1/3 will do it if it's going to work. The heat and force of the bead contracting will break the bond. I saw my FIL remove from my truck a roller transmission input shaft bearing that had cratered and lost the inner race and all the rollers leaving only the outer race pressed into my crankshaft this way. We took the flywheel off and he welded a bead on the crank flange just above the hub part which located the flywheel. We took it out with a seal pick. True story, I saw it with my own eyes. I had used all manner of pullers and chisels and that sucker wasn't coming out. I was like "what friggen sorcery is this?" I ground off the weld so the flywheel would locate back up true. If I had been able to access a lathe at work I could have turned a shaft to hammer on after packing the cavity with grease, but it was the weekend and I had to have it done by Monday to actually go to work. My FIL was an oilfield machinist. I thought he may have been a sorcerer for awhile. :D [/QUOTE]

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