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The Water Cooler
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shadowbox for Mauser ready for the torch
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<blockquote data-quote="steelfingers" data-source="post: 3409320" data-attributes="member: 38658"><p>Cut the blades. I get a ton of flack for doing that to historic pieces but there are millions of these available. </p><p>I think they look cool as an addition in the colors of the period and not removing a historic artifact. </p><p>The blades extend an 1/8th inch inside the board. I have cut out slots for them to fit through. This gives them extra holding power for weight. I put a dark copper screw through the bayonet loop (that goes over the barrel when attached) with a bolt in the rear. Super strong. the back board is 1" but we know that's not true, but I have the perfect size. The side trim gives you plenty of room in the rear for hanging. I'll take some metal pieces and form them in a horseshoe shape and attache them to the top of the handles of the bayonet's. The metal is covered with 3m tape that has the soft side to not scratch the stock.</p><p>More than you wanted to know. Ha</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="steelfingers, post: 3409320, member: 38658"] Cut the blades. I get a ton of flack for doing that to historic pieces but there are millions of these available. I think they look cool as an addition in the colors of the period and not removing a historic artifact. The blades extend an 1/8th inch inside the board. I have cut out slots for them to fit through. This gives them extra holding power for weight. I put a dark copper screw through the bayonet loop (that goes over the barrel when attached) with a bolt in the rear. Super strong. the back board is 1" but we know that's not true, but I have the perfect size. The side trim gives you plenty of room in the rear for hanging. I'll take some metal pieces and form them in a horseshoe shape and attache them to the top of the handles of the bayonet's. The metal is covered with 3m tape that has the soft side to not scratch the stock. More than you wanted to know. Ha [/QUOTE]
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