Silverado prevenitive maint. ?

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Hangfire

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I've got a 2002 1500 Chevy Silverado with 83,500 miles on it and I've always been religious about 3000 mile oil changes.

I'm the original owner and not mechanically inclined or physically able (bad back) enough to do the work myself.

Everything is all original and I know belts get hard and crack with age and hoses have a tendency to get soft and mushy feeling so for prevenitive maint. I'm seriously considering going ahead and having all of the 16 year old belts, hoses and water pump changed.

I had my free tire rotation done this morning at the local Firestone where I normally trade and they quoted me $767.00 OTD for belts, hoses, water pump, new coolant and the labor.

Thoughts ?
 

BReeves

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My 2000 went 250,000 on the original water pump and 260,000 on the Y heater hose but about the same age as your 02 would be getting to. I would probably go with the belts and hoses then wait on the water pump. Mine started leaking but gave me plenty of time to get one ordered and changed out, just had to top the radiator off every couple days. It isn't a bad job to replace a water pump on these trucks.
 

TwoForFlinching

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If you were going to do it all at once, that doesn't sound like a bad price. I'd double check that includes a factory water pump though. I've had poor experiences with O'rielly parts. Good warranties, but odds are you'll have to swap em out later on claim. Even if that raises your bill a little bit, factory parts will be worth it.
 

Shadowrider

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If you were going to do it all at once, that doesn't sound like a bad price. I'd double check that includes a factory water pump though. I've had poor experiences with O'rielly parts. Good warranties, but odds are you'll have to swap em out later on claim. Even if that raises your bill a little bit, factory parts will be worth it.
Yep. The "lifetime warranty" is basically useless when you have an $80 part that costs $450 in labor to R&R.

I had a shop put on a brand new "severe duty" fan clutch from O'Reilly's to have it last about 8 months before it wouldn't pull enough air to keep the A/C compressor running. I replaced it with a factory Ford myself off of Amazon and it's still going strong 2 years later.
 

Fyrtwuck

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I had a 2004 Silverado and I had my oil changed with synthetic every 5k miles. I started having troubles with mine that I couldn’t fix myself and couldn’t afford to have fixed in 2015. There were problems with sensors that required removing the intake manifold and that’s when I decided to trade it in. It had 156k on it at trade in time. There wasn’t any problems with hoses or anything else. If I could have afforded or been able to fix it myself, I would probably still have it.

Do you really need a new water pump (is it leaking or making noises) or are they just trying to jack up the price?
 

swampratt

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Soft mushy hoses usually stem from oils being on the hoses or that shinola crap. I have had many cars with 300,000 miles and more with original hoses. only hose I changed on my corolla was PCV and it has 315,000 and the original ones feel and look like new.

I keep everything very clean.
If i was you I would change belts only.
Keep the factory water pump and hoses as they are worlds better than the aftermarket.
Like stated they will give you warnings when they need replaced.
Edit: if yours are soft and mushy I would replace them and keep the next ones clean.
And i change antifreeze every 2 years or sooner.

This is my 1995 corolla engine bay, I snapped the pic today over 315,000 miles on it. It has seen it's share of mud and dirt/gravel roads..Had hogs and deer and many fish hauled in the trunk.
001.JPG
 

Hangfire

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I'm not having any issues that I know of with the belts, hoses or water pump right now but was just thinking that I'd rather have them changed now, since they're 16 years old, than break down on the road somewhere......Firestone told me that they'd use only A/C Delco parts.
 

SlugSlinger

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A/C Delco doesn’t mean factory OEM parts purchased from the dealer. Walmart sells A/C Delco oil filters that are aftermarket parts.

Did you look at the serpentine belt? Just look for cracks in the grooves on the inside of the belt. If there are cracks, then replace. I wouldn’t mess with the other items until there are signs of failure. I would check the air filter and it’s about time to change the plugs.
 

filbert

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I have a 2005 F150 Ford with 172,000 miles, went into Hibdons to get tire rotation and came out with $1975.00 with needed repairs. lol One item was I needed a new air filter, I changed it the Monday before, it wasn't even a week old! I have owned cars for 42 years and never changed the coolant unless I had to replace a hose or pump. Maybe check your belts and hoses.
 

swampratt

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I used to drive 70,000+ miles a year as did the wife.. that is a lot of oil changes.
That is a lot of vehicles also.
I always got them cheap though and most needed built. I had owned over 250 vehicles by the time i was 24.
Many were for parts but I still owned them.

There was a guy that went into my uncles shop and wanted his radiator replaced as it was leaking and wanted my uncle to save the antifreeze and reuse it..The old guy said IT NEVER GOES BAD.
Fine and dandy the customer is always right.

Drained it into a very clean galvanized steel pan that evening and called it a day.
Next morning my uncle went to pour the fluid into the new radiator but stopped after looking into the pan.

The fluid had eaten the galvanized coating off the pan.
It became acidic.
The customer was brought in to witness this and changed his thinking.
Head gaskets water pumps heater cores they all take a beating when the coolant becomes acidic.

Coolant pH
One major factor on the corrosion rate of the metals is the coolant’s pH. Shifts in coolant pH will affect the metals that corrode and the rate of each metal’s corrosion. The pH scale runs from 0 to 14. A coolant becomes more acidic closer to zero; and more alkaline toward 14. Coolant pH should always be maintained between 8.5 and 11. If a coolant’s pH drops below 8.5, it will become aggressive to ferrous metals (cast iron and steel), aluminum, copper and brass. If it increases above 11, it will become aggressive to aluminum and solder in a cooling system.

I copied that last paragraph from here.
http://penray.com/cooling-system-techfacts/metal-corrosion/

Check PH levels guys
 

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