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Solid General Purpose Folder
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<blockquote data-quote="ez bake" data-source="post: 2457165" data-attributes="member: 229"><p>I never said it was a lock-back. I said "lock bar" and batonning with a liner lock folder while the lock bar is engaged means you've probably done some pretty good damage to the lock-face (by most manufacturer's standards, that is abuse and not normal use, so you've also likely avoided Ontario's limited warranty on the knife). I'd wager that there is a bit of vertical blade-play in it now which typically means a lock-failure is on it's way.</p><p></p><p>If you understood the physics behind what's going on in a liner-lock knife, you'd know that there is only a tiny bit of metal-on-metal contact (just the very edge of the liner contacts the lock-face on the tang) and the liner is likely made of a 440 or other stainless steel (which is not a tool steel and not designed to be beat on). </p><p></p><p>Michael Walker (the designer of the liner-lock system) has actually weighed in and said that the locking mechanism itself is not meant to handle great amounts of shock (which includes over-strikes, spine-whacks, and batonning). </p><p></p><p>If you've seriously done any hard batonning with that folder (with the lock-bar engaged), I wouldn't trust the lock-bar to stay engaged while you do any hard stabbing or anything that might cause an over-strike or you could lose a finger. There are better lock-systems out there more suited for chopping/batonning if you're seriously wanting to do that with a folder (but then again, there are cheap fixed-blades that will work even better).</p><p></p><p>The Ontario RAT 1 is a great little folder (I've owned two and a RAT 2). It's a great bargain and I've listed a bunch of other bargain knives on this site here:</p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.okshooters.com/showthread.php?158299-High-Quality-Budget-Folding-Knives-for-this-Christmas-season&" target="_blank">https://www.okshooters.com/showthread.php?158299-High-Quality-Budget-Folding-Knives-for-this-Christmas-season&</a></p><p></p><p>But just because you own one and beat on it (and posted pictures that don't necessarily prove you batonned with it), that doesn't mean that those of us who own knives that are more than $200 don't use them. I use all my knives - the budget-priced knives and the more expensive ones, and even the limited-production models that aren't made anymore (drives some of my fellow knife-nuts crazy to see me break out my Carbon Fiber Para-2 and use it like any of my other folders). But I use them to you know... cut stuff. </p><p></p><p>I occasionally stab stuff that needs stabbing, or carve stuff that needs carving, but I go to my fixed blades to do things like batonning and chopping. I like to use the right tool for the right job, but that's just me - I'm funny that way.</p><p></p><p>I also don't use my handguns as hammers, or my rifles as pry-bars either.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ez bake, post: 2457165, member: 229"] I never said it was a lock-back. I said "lock bar" and batonning with a liner lock folder while the lock bar is engaged means you've probably done some pretty good damage to the lock-face (by most manufacturer's standards, that is abuse and not normal use, so you've also likely avoided Ontario's limited warranty on the knife). I'd wager that there is a bit of vertical blade-play in it now which typically means a lock-failure is on it's way. If you understood the physics behind what's going on in a liner-lock knife, you'd know that there is only a tiny bit of metal-on-metal contact (just the very edge of the liner contacts the lock-face on the tang) and the liner is likely made of a 440 or other stainless steel (which is not a tool steel and not designed to be beat on). Michael Walker (the designer of the liner-lock system) has actually weighed in and said that the locking mechanism itself is not meant to handle great amounts of shock (which includes over-strikes, spine-whacks, and batonning). If you've seriously done any hard batonning with that folder (with the lock-bar engaged), I wouldn't trust the lock-bar to stay engaged while you do any hard stabbing or anything that might cause an over-strike or you could lose a finger. There are better lock-systems out there more suited for chopping/batonning if you're seriously wanting to do that with a folder (but then again, there are cheap fixed-blades that will work even better). The Ontario RAT 1 is a great little folder (I've owned two and a RAT 2). It's a great bargain and I've listed a bunch of other bargain knives on this site here: [url]https://www.okshooters.com/showthread.php?158299-High-Quality-Budget-Folding-Knives-for-this-Christmas-season&[/url] But just because you own one and beat on it (and posted pictures that don't necessarily prove you batonned with it), that doesn't mean that those of us who own knives that are more than $200 don't use them. I use all my knives - the budget-priced knives and the more expensive ones, and even the limited-production models that aren't made anymore (drives some of my fellow knife-nuts crazy to see me break out my Carbon Fiber Para-2 and use it like any of my other folders). But I use them to you know... cut stuff. I occasionally stab stuff that needs stabbing, or carve stuff that needs carving, but I go to my fixed blades to do things like batonning and chopping. I like to use the right tool for the right job, but that's just me - I'm funny that way. I also don't use my handguns as hammers, or my rifles as pry-bars either. [/QUOTE]
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