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<blockquote data-quote="J.P." data-source="post: 715151" data-attributes="member: 6"><p>Yeah, fly casting is all about <em>three</em> things:</p><p><u>Timing</u>, <u>Timing</u>, and <u>Timing</u>....knowing when to apply power to accelerate the line, when to wait, and when to stop.</p><p></p><p>A lot of people fisrt starting out do not understand the arm/line/rod relationship and they try to force it to work.</p><p>The overpower the rod by slinging it hard in the direction they want to go.....this will <u>never</u> work with a fly rod.</p><p></p><p>With a fly rod, you are casting the <em>line</em>, not the lure, because the line is the only thing that has any weight in the tackle chain....you're ignoring the lure.</p><p>(as opposed to a standard rod/reel fishing where you are casting the weight of the <em>lure</em> and the line doesn't play much of a role)</p><p></p><p>In most cases, particularly with Trout, you are looking for a finesse presentation regardless of how the wind/weather is cooperating with your casting.</p><p>If you're fishing for something like Bluegill you can slam the line down, splash it, crash the fly hard...they don't really care.</p><p></p><p>There are basically 5 steps to your <u>basic</u> fly cast:</p><p>-The pick up</p><p>-The backcast</p><p>-The "pause" (while you wait for the line to unroll)</p><p>-The forward cast</p><p>-The laydown</p><p>It looks more like two steps when viewing it unless you know what you are looking at, especially when watching someone who is very smooth.</p><p></p><p>After removing excess slack from the line (and with the rod pointing low and straight ahead) you start your "pick up" where you raise the rod hand up to about eye level (11:00)...your rod will "load" due to the weight of the line and it's resistance on the water.</p><p>At that point you transition smoothly into your back cast where you begin moving the rod <em>slowly</em> up/backward over your shoulder to about the 1:00 position (your head being 12:00)</p><p>While you do this, you are increasing the rod spedd from slow to fast in a smooth accelration...until you reach the 1:00 position where you instantly STOP.</p><p></p><p>This backcast is probably the single most important element of your casting stroke.</p><p>It all starts with a good backcast, and without a good backcast you will not have a good cast in <em>any</em> regard.</p><p></p><p>Then you pause and wait for the line to unroll behind you (straightens all the way out). You can watch this happen but it is very important to notice the "feel" of the line when it's straight so that you can progress to casting without <em>having</em> to look.</p><p>After the line is straight out behind you, you begin your forward cast.</p><p>To do this you apply the same slow to fast acceleration and then abrupt STOP as you did with the back cast.....but you stop at the 11:00 position.</p><p>The line will unroll stright out in front of you just like it did behind you with the previous back cast....once it's straight, you simply lay it down on the water.</p><p></p><p>When you are starting out, keep your elbow tucked in close to your body.</p><p></p><p> Take a lightweight book and hold it to your body with the elbow of your casting arm....your forearm basically moving 90 degrees from parallel to the ground to straight up and down....don't let the book fall out.</p><p></p><p>Also you want to keep your wrist straight and locked...never allow it to bend either forward or backwards at any time during the cast.</p><p>(you can get into that later after you have the basiscs down)</p><p>This keeps the rod tip traveling in s straight line direction throughout the cast without allowing the tip to "dip" or "waver"...which will wreak havoc on your line loop.</p><p></p><p>What you are looking for is a nice tight/even "loop" in your line as it begins to unroll....not too wide....and not so tight that it hits itself.</p><p></p><p>Another tip is to always try to practice casting on the water whenever possible, even if you are using a swimming pool or otherwise unfishable body of water.</p><p>This is important because as I mentioned above the resistance of the line on the water is what helps to "load" the rod. You can do it on dry ground but you won't get the same effect and you'll likely need to compensate.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Eh...I *think* I covered it about as reasonably as I can on here.</p><p>Hope this helps a little bit.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="J.P., post: 715151, member: 6"] Yeah, fly casting is all about [I]three[/I] things: [U]Timing[/U], [U]Timing[/U], and [U]Timing[/U]....knowing when to apply power to accelerate the line, when to wait, and when to stop. A lot of people fisrt starting out do not understand the arm/line/rod relationship and they try to force it to work. The overpower the rod by slinging it hard in the direction they want to go.....this will [U]never[/U] work with a fly rod. With a fly rod, you are casting the [I]line[/I], not the lure, because the line is the only thing that has any weight in the tackle chain....you're ignoring the lure. (as opposed to a standard rod/reel fishing where you are casting the weight of the [I]lure[/I] and the line doesn't play much of a role) In most cases, particularly with Trout, you are looking for a finesse presentation regardless of how the wind/weather is cooperating with your casting. If you're fishing for something like Bluegill you can slam the line down, splash it, crash the fly hard...they don't really care. There are basically 5 steps to your [U]basic[/U] fly cast: -The pick up -The backcast -The "pause" (while you wait for the line to unroll) -The forward cast -The laydown It looks more like two steps when viewing it unless you know what you are looking at, especially when watching someone who is very smooth. After removing excess slack from the line (and with the rod pointing low and straight ahead) you start your "pick up" where you raise the rod hand up to about eye level (11:00)...your rod will "load" due to the weight of the line and it's resistance on the water. At that point you transition smoothly into your back cast where you begin moving the rod [I]slowly[/I] up/backward over your shoulder to about the 1:00 position (your head being 12:00) While you do this, you are increasing the rod spedd from slow to fast in a smooth accelration...until you reach the 1:00 position where you instantly STOP. This backcast is probably the single most important element of your casting stroke. It all starts with a good backcast, and without a good backcast you will not have a good cast in [I]any[/I] regard. Then you pause and wait for the line to unroll behind you (straightens all the way out). You can watch this happen but it is very important to notice the "feel" of the line when it's straight so that you can progress to casting without [I]having[/I] to look. After the line is straight out behind you, you begin your forward cast. To do this you apply the same slow to fast acceleration and then abrupt STOP as you did with the back cast.....but you stop at the 11:00 position. The line will unroll stright out in front of you just like it did behind you with the previous back cast....once it's straight, you simply lay it down on the water. When you are starting out, keep your elbow tucked in close to your body. Take a lightweight book and hold it to your body with the elbow of your casting arm....your forearm basically moving 90 degrees from parallel to the ground to straight up and down....don't let the book fall out. Also you want to keep your wrist straight and locked...never allow it to bend either forward or backwards at any time during the cast. (you can get into that later after you have the basiscs down) This keeps the rod tip traveling in s straight line direction throughout the cast without allowing the tip to "dip" or "waver"...which will wreak havoc on your line loop. What you are looking for is a nice tight/even "loop" in your line as it begins to unroll....not too wide....and not so tight that it hits itself. Another tip is to always try to practice casting on the water whenever possible, even if you are using a swimming pool or otherwise unfishable body of water. This is important because as I mentioned above the resistance of the line on the water is what helps to "load" the rod. You can do it on dry ground but you won't get the same effect and you'll likely need to compensate. Eh...I *think* I covered it about as reasonably as I can on here. Hope this helps a little bit. [/QUOTE]
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