Gfercaks33...this thread is for you. Hopefully this will help give you an idea of what to expect when using boiled linseed oil, pure tung oil, or tung oil finish during a stock refinish. Below are a few examples of each type from stocks that I have refinished in the past. Examples of BLO: BLO on American Black Walnut Stock color was very lightly toned with a small amount of Feibings Medium Brown alcohol based dye prior to applying BLO coats. The walnut was naturally dark so it did not require much in the way of staining. BLO on Arctic Birch Stock was stripped of remaining shellac with denatured alcohol as there was only 10%-20% of the stock that was still covered. Stock was then treated with an aged oil finish technique using BLO and Feibings Medium Brown dye without being cleaned, stripped, or sanded. The goal was to replicate the look of a 70 year old military oil finish. More info on aged oil finish: http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=83&t=73332 BLO on Birch Stock was stained with Feibings British Tan, treated with Pine Tar/ Turpentine mixture to accentuate the figuring in the wood, and finished with BLO. BLO on Chinese Catalpa Stock was stained with Feibings British Tan and finished with BLO. Examples of Pure Tung Oil: PTO on Walnut (Italian stock...not sure of species) Stock was stained with a custom mixed color using RIT dyes and finished with Real Milk Paint Pure Dark Tung Oil. PTO on laminated and non-laminated Birch (Beech pistol grip and possibly upper handguard) Stock has not been stained...it was treated with Pine Tar/ Turpentine mix and finished with Real Milk Paint Pure Dark Tung Oil. Example of Tung Oil Finish: Tung Oil Finish on laminated and non-laminated Birch Stock was stained with RIT brown dye and finished with four coats of Minwax Tung Oil Finish. Finish can easily be dulled from gloss to matte by buffing with 0000 steel wool once the finish has fully cured. Using a wax such as Johnsons paste wax while buffing will help prevent swirl or burn marks from occurring.