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The Range
Gear Talk
the cost of some scopes - and other equipment
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<blockquote data-quote="Jcann" data-source="post: 4391079" data-attributes="member: 33119"><p>The “average” Oklahoma deer hunter really doesn’t need a scope with the following:</p><p></p><p>Impeccable glass quality </p><p>30mm or larger tube,</p><p>50mm object lens,</p><p>Anything above 10x</p><p>First focal plane,</p><p>Zero stop,</p><p>Exposed turrets,</p><p>Parallax adjustment,</p><p>Illuminated reticle,</p><p>Mil radian, BDC, or any other ranging/hold off reticle (think Christmas tree),</p><p>1/8” MOA adjustments,</p><p></p><p>The “average” Oklahoma deer hunter probably needs a scope with the following:</p><p></p><p>Good to very good glass,</p><p>Reliability, Reliability, and Reliability </p><p>1” tube,</p><p>40mm objective lens,</p><p>4 to 10x magnification,</p><p>Easily definable reticle (KISS)</p><p>Rock solid warranty </p><p></p><p>Glass quality is most often in the eye of the beholder and difficult to quantify but there is a huge difference in cost. When viewing in a comparison test, especially in difficult conditions, one will see the difference.</p><p></p><p>Reliability comes with time on target. Any scope can crap the bed and it usually doesn’t happen over time. Most often it happens between shots. Generally your more expensive scopes are more reliable but they can fail like a cheap watch too. I have a Vortex Razor that didn’t track correctly. If I had only shot 100 yards I would have never noticed it. If your rifle is shooting good groups one day and the next day under the same conditions your groups with the same load go to heck, chances are it’s your scope or mounts. I’ve seen a Kahles scope do it. I have a Hawk scope on an RWS springer and the glass is mediocre at best but the thing tracks true and has done so for years.</p><p></p><p>Buy what you need for your given discipline and sacrifice your wants until you can’t live without them.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jcann, post: 4391079, member: 33119"] The “average” Oklahoma deer hunter really doesn’t need a scope with the following: Impeccable glass quality 30mm or larger tube, 50mm object lens, Anything above 10x First focal plane, Zero stop, Exposed turrets, Parallax adjustment, Illuminated reticle, Mil radian, BDC, or any other ranging/hold off reticle (think Christmas tree), 1/8” MOA adjustments, The “average” Oklahoma deer hunter probably needs a scope with the following: Good to very good glass, Reliability, Reliability, and Reliability 1” tube, 40mm objective lens, 4 to 10x magnification, Easily definable reticle (KISS) Rock solid warranty Glass quality is most often in the eye of the beholder and difficult to quantify but there is a huge difference in cost. When viewing in a comparison test, especially in difficult conditions, one will see the difference. Reliability comes with time on target. Any scope can crap the bed and it usually doesn’t happen over time. Most often it happens between shots. Generally your more expensive scopes are more reliable but they can fail like a cheap watch too. I have a Vortex Razor that didn’t track correctly. If I had only shot 100 yards I would have never noticed it. If your rifle is shooting good groups one day and the next day under the same conditions your groups with the same load go to heck, chances are it’s your scope or mounts. I’ve seen a Kahles scope do it. I have a Hawk scope on an RWS springer and the glass is mediocre at best but the thing tracks true and has done so for years. Buy what you need for your given discipline and sacrifice your wants until you can’t live without them. [/QUOTE]
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