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There are still some artists/musicians who "get it"

Discussion in 'Stupid Stuff' started by tRidiot, May 30, 2016.

  1. nofearfactor

    nofearfactor Sharpshooter

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    I like the multi alt and or multi battery setup for trucks, may do that on my next SUV. I just have been used to using caps to give me some needed juice when I get a big dip in power. That damn bass tho suckiin all my power. I like my music listening to mimic the balls I get out of my guitar rig but Im also definitely a basshead, Lollll. :cool:
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2016
  2. tRidiot

    tRidiot Sharpshooter

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    The cap only provides a storage for very quick and short (like milliseconds) discharge of power, relatively small amounts in terms of dynamic power wattage, really. According to some folks, they're not really useful at all and only are are band-aid to help with the apparent "symptom" of dashlight flicker. I don't believe it's ever been conclusively shown to improve either sound quality or SPL in real-world applications. In spite of this, I do have a 5 Farad cap in my Tahoe. I still get pretty heavy dimming of the dash and interior lights when at full-tilt. It's really just a matter of being thorough to me and doing everything I can to improve the electrical system. It's even been theorized that this adds extra strain on your electrical system by adding in another component to charge. Oh well... I don't worry about it overmuch, honestly. In my system in the Tahoe, which is almost 8,000 watts, I don't think much outside of a massive bank of very fast-discharging batteries would realize an improvement in real-world output.

    Luckily, I've overbuilt my system enough (from an electrical standpoint) that it doesn't really matter. lol

    I ran several thousand watts on the stock alternator (90A) in my 240sx for many years without an alternator failure... I just decided in my new systems, since I can afford to do it "right" that I would overbuild the electrical system just to make myself feel better. ;) I don't get any noticeable voltage drop in the Z as of now, in spite of an available total power output of over 3,800 watts. I don't kid myself that I ever really come close to hitting that maximum output, either. I like to overpower my speakers just like I like to overbuild my electrical. ;)
     
  3. nofearfactor

    nofearfactor Sharpshooter

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    I dont think you over build at all, you just like things right. Looks freakin good to me from the pics Ive seen. Good wiring cannot ever be over looked, its prolly more necessary than anything else carrying all of that juice back and forth.

    Whats funny is when people hear the wattage numbers of these systems and they think we're going around with it maxed all the time. Just like in your home system more power brings lower distortion- which is what we're after (besides cranking the F out of it, lollll)- unlike my guitar rigs where I am deliberately generating as much distortion as I can by overdriving those transformers and tubes to acheive 'tube sag', a phenomenon with tube powered amps that doesnt happen with SS errr transisitor.

    Im thinking either better output on my alt or do the dual battery in my SUV might be an upgrade worth considering after talking to you. Thanx for the idea.

    I love Z cars and their cousins. I sold my last G35 n.a. in hopes of finding another 370Z or even a G37 turbo but for now Ive decided to wait and stick with the 98' Supra TT I have and just wait for either the new Supra to come out in 18' or maybe even try to find a GT-R. I love GT-Rs. Haha, with every new car comes a reason to build a new system.
     
  4. tRidiot

    tRidiot Sharpshooter

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    GT-R FTMFW. :D Someday...

    The battery is really only useful when powering the system with the motor off. If it's running, the alt should keep the voltage high enough... if you get voltage drop below 12V, then it'll pull momentarily from the battery... mine will do this if I've got it really cranked - yet another reason I think all 3 of my alts are not working properly. With as much current as I should be supplying, voltage drop shouldn't be much of a possibility, even with the power I am drawing. Unfortunately, although I have an in-dash voltmeter (besides the stock one), we did not wire in the capability to monitor each alternator individually. So that's the next step. Totally separating the stereo electrical system on 2 alternators from the truck's stock electrical system on one alternator. I have an MLA module that is supposed to "control" the alternators, but there is no way to even know if it is functioning, nor to monitor it... so I am thinking about pulling that. We'll see... it's a challenge, for sure, but it's a hobby, so... :D

    I think for 99.9% of regular street systems out there, I'd just recommend a high-amp alternator and solid wiring and call it good. I've had tons of trouble with my triple-alternator setup. <sigh> Hoping to work that all out and have all the monitoring capability I could want in the longrun. :D
     
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  5. nofearfactor

    nofearfactor Sharpshooter

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    Sounds like youre on the right track budd.

    My mom lives up north of Pawhuska on a ranch in Osage county so I usually alternate my drives to cure boredom. I come thru your way on occasion. Have alot of friends and a few exes there. We'll have to coordinate a meetup sometime and go 'Oooo' at the systems. Im prolly as busy as you are tho. I just got back from NYC last weekend visiting my headquarters and am about to go to CO to work this weekend. We'll have to hook up sometime for sure.
     
  6. tRidiot

    tRidiot Sharpshooter

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    Sounds good... I gotta get the systems lined out, though. lol

    I just ordered 3 new alternators, so this weekend I am hoping to cure all the electrical ills in the Tahoe. :D Then to fix the minor things in the Z after that...
     
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