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Message: <blockquote data-quote="p238shooter" data-source="post: 1903881" data-attributes="member: 24583">OK, just my personal experiences.  Owned many internal combustion vehicles in my life, 19 cars, 4 jet-skis, 4 boats, 4 aircraft, 42 motorcycles, forgot how many lawnmowers, roto-tillers, power washers, etc. For example, bought a 94 suburban that had synthetic oil all its life. They got rid of it because it used a quart every 700 miles. Switched to std 15-30, changed to a quart every 1900 - 2000 miles.  Bought a GW Honda, clutch was slightly slipping in high gear.  Wa-la - Changed from synthetic to std 10-30.  Fixed the problem.Purchased 4th aircraft, he only ran std 50W.  Started looking at past AP engine re-builder posts.  Way lot more engine rebuilds (less than TBO) after introduction of multi-viscosity oils.  I will keep running 50W AeroShell, less additives than multi weight, and way less additives than full *Synthetic".  A little additives already degrades it, why ask for more?.If you want your oil to look good after 20,000 miles, and provide the same qualities it had when it was new,----fine.  I am not looking for that in my lubrication requirements.  My self, I would rather pour in something that was doing its job, slick and oily for 3K miles and gets ate up, doing what it does.  I can then say, "Thank you for your service, draining you now".  not "I am glad all those other additives protected you while they were eating up my crankshaft and camshaft".  Oil and its properties are what I need, not additives that look good on paper 20K afterward.  If you do not need much lubrication, replace it with polymers or whatever.  It mightl give your crankshaft something to chew on in it's spare time.  I guess I might push my crankshafts harder that others do.I do not think I have ever heard on a synthetic oil for my favorite Nitro Fuel dragster at 7000hp,  Wonder why?Ok, down to real life, what is the ratio of engine explosion vs accessory failure, window motor, plastic stuff degradation of your particular vehicle or other stuff that would give you reason to trade/sell your car down the road?  How much extra/oil change $?  On the other hand, if you change your muffler bearings every 25K miles, your exhaust will flow out easier, resulting in less engine wear, less strain on your crankshaft, camshaft, valves, and other moving parts.  Most people neglect this during their 500K maintenance inspection because the dealers do not want you to know this during their warranty period so it can jam you up later and it will be more of a profit to them.  Act now or you may be forever doomed to have --  smelly socks, which will reduce your combustion at least another 4MPG.. The only way to avoid this to pour in at least 6oz of the secret formula developed by the wife of the famous Dr. Sholes, the  mileage master professional.  I would give you the name of someone else, but really con not think of anyone at the time.  Call me when your crankshaft dropps out.  .Ken</blockquote>

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