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The Range
Military Surplus
Wood refinishing question
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<blockquote data-quote="Shadowrider" data-source="post: 2396569" data-attributes="member: 3099"><p>GC a word from experience... Minwax stains aren't what they used to be. I tried Minwax on my Garand stock which is birch and it looked just flat out horrible. Birch is just near impossible to stain evenly so I would be prepared for a backup plan depending on what wood your stock is. The Rustoleum Ultimate stains at Lowes are very much better and a lot faster drying too. Honestly I'll probably just use Fiebings leather dye on gunstocks from now on.</p><p></p><p>For the topcoat listen to coolhand, he knows his stuff. What he said to use is probably the easiest to get a decent protective coat and the Birchwood Casey would be good too for a "working gun". If you use the "Tung Oil Finish" Formby makes a satin version of it, though it's still pretty glossy. It's essentially identical to the Minwax.</p><p></p><p>If it's something I want to look old school I use pure Tung oil from the Real Milk Paint Company. It's just awesome, but it's a whole lot of waiting and a long drawn out process to get it built up. BLO is a little better but still takes awhile, like 1 to 2 days per coat to dry.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Shadowrider, post: 2396569, member: 3099"] GC a word from experience... Minwax stains aren't what they used to be. I tried Minwax on my Garand stock which is birch and it looked just flat out horrible. Birch is just near impossible to stain evenly so I would be prepared for a backup plan depending on what wood your stock is. The Rustoleum Ultimate stains at Lowes are very much better and a lot faster drying too. Honestly I'll probably just use Fiebings leather dye on gunstocks from now on. For the topcoat listen to coolhand, he knows his stuff. What he said to use is probably the easiest to get a decent protective coat and the Birchwood Casey would be good too for a "working gun". If you use the "Tung Oil Finish" Formby makes a satin version of it, though it's still pretty glossy. It's essentially identical to the Minwax. If it's something I want to look old school I use pure Tung oil from the Real Milk Paint Company. It's just awesome, but it's a whole lot of waiting and a long drawn out process to get it built up. BLO is a little better but still takes awhile, like 1 to 2 days per coat to dry. [/QUOTE]
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