“Universal Powder”

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Yes, this is an extreme example. But this is my opinion when I see people trying to find/use the same powder for multiple and non-similar uses. Even in the same calibers.


9mm plinking vs 9mm self defense

300 blackout 110g Supers for hunting/Self defense vs 220g subsonic

.223 55g plinkers vs 6.5 1000y comps.

44 mag deer hunting vs 44 spec lever cowboy action.

I want a powder to work with a my pistols. .380, 9mm, 38, 357, 10mm 45acp, 45 colt, and 500S&W.

Can you find a single powder that will “work”? Maybe.

Can you find one that will give you “great results”. Doubtful. But you might find a compromise powder that might eventually have a sweet spot that will “work”.


Compare to this:

I need to plan out my day.
I need to take all the hinges of my kitchen cabinet doors to refinish them.
I need to saw off a couple of 4” limbs that are touching the house.
I need to cut the coupons out of the Sunday paper.
Afterwards I’m going relax a bit catch a fish in my pond, fillet and cook it. And I’ll open a nice bottle of wine to enjoy with it.

Ohh. And I only want to get one tool dirty.

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Will it “work”? I guess it will. But you are not going to see optimum results. You may even hate life halfway through the day. You may be trying to open that bottle of wine before noon or even worse, cut your throat with it. (Don’t fret, you’ll likely survive)


Pick the right tool for the job.

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While there are some powders that work very well in multiple calibers, you need to use them within the area where they do cross over well. You can “use” a lot of time, bullets, and PRIMERS, getting those sweet spots and developing a load even with an optimal powder. And You can “waste” a lot of time, bullets, and PRIMERS, trying to find those sweet spots and developing a load with a powder not designed for your intended purpose.
A chronograph will tell you where the powder starts doing done crazy things toward both high and low ends. But even when that starts to stabilize, your bullet/barrel and other contributing factors may need a much narrower window. This is particularly important with rifle that pistol, but you see it in all.



Yes, I have quite a few powders in my toolbox and there are a few that I use across multiple applications. But for the most part, I keep them in their respective lanes or a particulate area when I get outside the lanes with a particular powder.


Buying 2-3 $25 a # powder make more sense than trying to buy 2# of a single powder that does not work well for any of your 3 applications.


[mention]Honey Badger [/mention]
 
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Unique is known as a universal powder for pistol or shotshells. It used to be really dirty but it’s been reformulated to burn much cleaner now.
I’ve used it in all common pistol rounds. It’s not a powder for magnum loads though.

It can be used for 10mm but wouldn’t be my first choice.


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dlbleak

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I have a new bottle of Unique that I haven’t tapped yet. Still using some of the grimy stuff but it works well.
I think it’s why they called it ‘unique’ it would work in a pinch for many applications. I found it to work in my gen1 keltec 2000. Couldn’t get it to cycle worth a darn. Found some truncated lead boolits and 5 gr of unique. I ran the dog pizz out of that thing and it purred like a kitten. Still haven’t cleaned it. I kinda like the ol sooty thing leaned in the corner of the safe
 

HFS

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I found a Lyman 43rd edition reloading manual from 1964 and it lists six powders for .357 magnum (for all bullet weights).
It only lists six powders for all .38 Spl loads (one powder is different than the magnum).
You can only get three of these powders any more Bullseye, Unique and 2400.
The manual lists a bunch of lead bullet loads for rifles too. A lot of those use Unique (light loads) and 2400 (heavier loads).
It was probably easier to select a powder for reloading back then.
 

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