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1st time boat owner, MANY questions & issues
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<blockquote data-quote="swampratt" data-source="post: 3135332" data-attributes="member: 15054"><p>I have had many boats worked at a boat shop rebuilding the engines when they came in they called me.</p><p></p><p>It is not all that bad really. I do not care for inboards though as I like to fish sometimes when ice is on the rivers.</p><p></p><p>Take some brake fluid like a cap full and dip a 2" square piece of paper towel into it.</p><p>It will soak up the fluid.. place that on the plug you wish to remove and squeeze it so the fluid gets around the threads and wait 30 minutes and try removing it then.</p><p></p><p>If it does not come out no biggie as you can always pour straight antifreeze into the thermostat hole and keep the block from freezing up.</p><p>I usually put a shop vac in blow mode and suck mode and try and get all the water out if the plugs will not come loose.</p><p>Then pour antifreeze into it in the winter.. this is if the plugs do not come out. </p><p></p><p>Now never run it or even crank it over without the muffs on and water flowing.</p><p>Check the lower unit oil and top it off before you go out.</p><p>Old gas makes varnish and that stuff will clog jets and idle passages.. should have drained it.</p><p>And run it in a carburetor Ford. The Fords will drink anything. Or use it for weed killer.</p><p></p><p>Oil shelf life is not very long once the bottle is opened. Mobil 1 synthetic in the bottle shelf life is 10 years.. Open the bottle and it is 1 year.</p><p>Detergents and additives deplete rapidly once open or put in service. Call the 1800 number on the back of your oil and ask the questions.</p><p></p><p>Drain it and stick in some good oil. Joe Gibbs Driven hot rod oil would be what i would use as it is designed for long term storage and has a makeup that inhibits rust formation in vehicles that are parked for long periods.</p><p>Research it.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/hr-10w-40-high-zinc-petroleum-hot-rod-oilhtml/" target="_blank">http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/hr-10w-40-high-zinc-petroleum-hot-rod-oilhtml/</a></p><p></p><p>Do not store the boat with the lower unit pointing up.. trim it all the way down ..water can seep behind and into the lower unit and freeze and push the guts out and strip the lower unit..seen it happen.</p><p>If you do store it in the up in the winter then hang a bucket over it.. or put it under a shed.</p><p>Nose of the boat needs to be up during storage as water will collect in the boat.. it may not drain out and will water log the floor or any flotation foam in the floor.. makes for a very heavy boat.</p><p></p><p>Weather cracked tires need replaced.. get trailer tires heavy side wall..I still like my E load range biasplys. </p><p>But radial trailer tires will also work. Stiff sidewall keeps them from dog walking going down the road at highway speeds.</p><p>Inflate to the max rated on sidewall for a cooler running tire.. store tires out of the sun put a cover over them or prop plywood against them if you can.</p><p></p><p>I also like to store the parked boat off the tires (tires in the air).. : Jack stands under the frame or cut tree stumps if you have that.</p><p>That is for multiple months storage.. if you take it out every 2 months no big deal.</p><p></p><p>Batteries hooked positive to positive and negative terminal to negative terminal are still 12 volts.</p><p>Just hook your charger up to one of them and it will charge the pair at the same time.</p><p>Charge on a low setting like 2 amp.. high amp charges will sulfate the batteries.</p><p></p><p>Had a buddy that liked 50 amps to charge.. his batteries lasted a couple months.. he always cussed batteries.</p><p></p><p>I kept one battery for my boat in a daily driver vehicle tied in with my other battery ..it was charged and ready all the time.</p><p></p><p>See not all that hard <img src="/images/smilies/smile.png" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" data-shortname=":)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="swampratt, post: 3135332, member: 15054"] I have had many boats worked at a boat shop rebuilding the engines when they came in they called me. It is not all that bad really. I do not care for inboards though as I like to fish sometimes when ice is on the rivers. Take some brake fluid like a cap full and dip a 2" square piece of paper towel into it. It will soak up the fluid.. place that on the plug you wish to remove and squeeze it so the fluid gets around the threads and wait 30 minutes and try removing it then. If it does not come out no biggie as you can always pour straight antifreeze into the thermostat hole and keep the block from freezing up. I usually put a shop vac in blow mode and suck mode and try and get all the water out if the plugs will not come loose. Then pour antifreeze into it in the winter.. this is if the plugs do not come out. Now never run it or even crank it over without the muffs on and water flowing. Check the lower unit oil and top it off before you go out. Old gas makes varnish and that stuff will clog jets and idle passages.. should have drained it. And run it in a carburetor Ford. The Fords will drink anything. Or use it for weed killer. Oil shelf life is not very long once the bottle is opened. Mobil 1 synthetic in the bottle shelf life is 10 years.. Open the bottle and it is 1 year. Detergents and additives deplete rapidly once open or put in service. Call the 1800 number on the back of your oil and ask the questions. Drain it and stick in some good oil. Joe Gibbs Driven hot rod oil would be what i would use as it is designed for long term storage and has a makeup that inhibits rust formation in vehicles that are parked for long periods. Research it. [URL]http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/hr-10w-40-high-zinc-petroleum-hot-rod-oilhtml/[/URL] Do not store the boat with the lower unit pointing up.. trim it all the way down ..water can seep behind and into the lower unit and freeze and push the guts out and strip the lower unit..seen it happen. If you do store it in the up in the winter then hang a bucket over it.. or put it under a shed. Nose of the boat needs to be up during storage as water will collect in the boat.. it may not drain out and will water log the floor or any flotation foam in the floor.. makes for a very heavy boat. Weather cracked tires need replaced.. get trailer tires heavy side wall..I still like my E load range biasplys. But radial trailer tires will also work. Stiff sidewall keeps them from dog walking going down the road at highway speeds. Inflate to the max rated on sidewall for a cooler running tire.. store tires out of the sun put a cover over them or prop plywood against them if you can. I also like to store the parked boat off the tires (tires in the air).. : Jack stands under the frame or cut tree stumps if you have that. That is for multiple months storage.. if you take it out every 2 months no big deal. Batteries hooked positive to positive and negative terminal to negative terminal are still 12 volts. Just hook your charger up to one of them and it will charge the pair at the same time. Charge on a low setting like 2 amp.. high amp charges will sulfate the batteries. Had a buddy that liked 50 amps to charge.. his batteries lasted a couple months.. he always cussed batteries. I kept one battery for my boat in a daily driver vehicle tied in with my other battery ..it was charged and ready all the time. See not all that hard :) [/QUOTE]
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