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<blockquote data-quote="billt" data-source="post: 3520495" data-attributes="member: 5188">Another factor regarding the remote start FOB on this Westinghouse unit. In order for the FOB to work, and start the unit remotely, the master engine switch must be left in the &quot;RUN&quot; position. (The little yellow &quot;Battery Indicator&quot; light will glow yellow when the engine switch is in the &quot;RUN&quot; position). This will discharge the battery over time. So it&#039;s not something you can leave on for days on end. It&#039;s like leaving the ignition switch on your car in the &quot;ON&quot; position. It will discharge the battery if the engine is not started in a short amount of time.You might be able to counter this discharge by leaving the battery charger that came with the unit hooked up to a 120 Volt outlet. But I wouldn&#039;t advise that because you might overcharge the battery. (I believe the included charger puts out 2 Amps). And as was mentioned, it&#039;s always best to run the unit under some type of load. I use 2 of those portable electric oil filled heaters. They each have a 3 position switch that pulls 600 W, 1,200 W, and 1,800 W on &quot;HIGH&quot;. That allows me to have a load that varies from 600 W, up to 3,600 Watts with both units on &quot;HIGH&quot;. It&#039;s good to be able to vary the load when you are breaking in the unit.I also bought one of those &quot;Kill-A-Watt&quot; meters at Harbor Freight. They&#039;re a nice little unit you plug into the outlet first, then plug whatever you&#039;re using into it. And it will tell you exactly how much wattage and amperage your pulling. They are really nice to have when you&#039;re fooling around with generators of any type.<a href="https://www.harborfreight.com/kill-a-watt-electric-monitor-93519.html" target="_blank">https://www.harborfreight.com/kill-a-watt-electric-monitor-93519.html</a></blockquote>

[QUOTE="billt, post: 3520495, member: 5188"] Another factor regarding the remote start FOB on this Westinghouse unit. In order for the FOB to work, and start the unit remotely, the master engine switch must be left in the "RUN" position. (The little yellow "Battery Indicator" light will glow yellow when the engine switch is in the "RUN" position). This will discharge the battery over time. So it's not something you can leave on for days on end. It's like leaving the ignition switch on your car in the "ON" position. It will discharge the battery if the engine is not started in a short amount of time. You might be able to counter this discharge by leaving the battery charger that came with the unit hooked up to a 120 Volt outlet. But I wouldn't advise that because you might overcharge the battery. (I believe the included charger puts out 2 Amps). And as was mentioned, it's always best to run the unit under some type of load. I use 2 of those portable electric oil filled heaters. They each have a 3 position switch that pulls 600 W, 1,200 W, and 1,800 W on "HIGH". That allows me to have a load that varies from 600 W, up to 3,600 Watts with both units on "HIGH". It's good to be able to vary the load when you are breaking in the unit. I also bought one of those "Kill-A-Watt" meters at Harbor Freight. They're a nice little unit you plug into the outlet first, then plug whatever you're using into it. And it will tell you exactly how much wattage and amperage your pulling. They are really nice to have when you're fooling around with generators of any type. [URL]https://www.harborfreight.com/kill-a-watt-electric-monitor-93519.html[/URL] [/QUOTE]

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