I got this off Accurate Shooter and thought I would share it.
Very nice Jcann.
I like that there are notes section in there after case prep stuff..I would need to add what type of cleaning regimen was done.
I have shot walnut tumbled and shot hand cleaned and shot pin cleaned and they all act a tiny bit different.
Necks brushed and type of lube used and if annealed or not.
I like that there are notes section in there after case prep stuff..I would need to add what type of cleaning regimen was done.
I have shot walnut tumbled and shot hand cleaned and shot pin cleaned and they all act a tiny bit different.
Necks brushed and type of lube used and if annealed or not.
Yes, There are a few things that could be added to this sheet but it's a really good start. I think @Rustygun was looking for something like this. I'll be printing off a couple of these once I start working up serious load data for my Tikka.
Loading for two different 260 Rem (Savage and Tikka) using 3 different types of brass (Lapua, Peterson, and Remington) one needs to be really careful. I already had to rebuild my sons Savage bolt face due to high pressure with Lapua brass. I can load Remington brass a lot heaver and achieve higher MV than the Lapua brass for the Savage. What I'm loading currently for my Tikka in the Peterson brass would blow up my sons Savage if it was loaded in the Lapua brass. I'm going to try Peterson brass in my sons Savage, Hopefully I can load it heaver than the Lapua. If so, I'm going to stop using Lapua brass altogether for the our 260's.
I have a really good load for the Savage using Rem. brass and Berger 140gr Hybrid at 2,887 fps but I can't replicate it in the Lapua brass and I'm unsure if I can do it in the Peterson brass. With the Lapua brass the best I can safely achieve is 2,775 fps. Several pieces of my Rem brass have loose primer pockets and my supply is slowly dwindling.
I also need to get color coded ammo boxes, one color for Tikka and another for the Savage. Currently I've written with a black marker, "Tikka Only" on the boxes.
As a PSA, it's another good reason not to shoot your buddies reloads in your rifle. They may shoot great in his but could blow up yours.
Lapua brass in my .308 will not reach the upper accuracy node so I use winchester cases for those and use Lapua for lower accuracy node loads Like 41-42 gr of powder
I've never looked for a lower mv accuracy node. Usually I'm trying to achieve the safest higher mv accuracy node. Thankfully this didn't cost me a Savage rifle. Usually I can safely exceed published maximum load data with a given round. Over the years I began to view those max. loads basically as suggestions. As long as you work up charge weights slowly, watch for pressure signs, and stay consistent everything works out. NOT WITH LAPUA BRASS, I couldn't even load to published maximum load data.
It's a trade off with brass. With inexpensive brass you can usually achieve higher muzzle velocity accuracy nodes and with expensive brass, brass with thicker walls, consistent weights/lengths you'll loose velocity and have to settle with a lower velocity accuracy node. I don't know the H2O volume of Peterson brass vs Lapua but the Peterson brass seems to be very good. Maybe on par with Lapua and the cost is less than Lapua by about $20-$25 a hundred.
I'll continue working with Peterson brass, hopefully it will be a happy medium between the Remington and Lapua brass.
It's a trade off with brass. With inexpensive brass you can usually achieve higher muzzle velocity accuracy nodes and with expensive brass, brass with thicker walls, consistent weights/lengths you'll loose velocity and have to settle with a lower velocity accuracy node. I don't know the H2O volume of Peterson brass vs Lapua but the Peterson brass seems to be very good. Maybe on par with Lapua and the cost is less than Lapua by about $20-$25 a hundred.
I'll continue working with Peterson brass, hopefully it will be a happy medium between the Remington and Lapua brass.
