Drill hole in recoil pad?

[greg1996zz]

Hi,

I bought a pachmayr decelerator grind to fit recoil pad for my shotgun. Unfortunately, one of the factory screw holes is over the stock inlet for the main butt screw. The packaging indicates there's a metal plate in the pad; so can I just drill another hole in the pad and be okay?

Thanks.

 

[shortgrass]

If you drill that hole and attach it to the stock you will have a little bump where that screw head is. In the factory holes there is relief for the screw head so you have a clean installation. The plate in the pad is, also, kind of tuff to drill. Before I ruined the pad you bought I return it and get one made for your particular model as they make many now days, to work on almost anything. There are some other brands that have the holes set-up for your situation, Kick-ese comes to mind.

 

[greg1996zz]

Thanks, Shortgrass.

I looked at the kick-ez pad with the adjustable holes, but I don't think it has enough adjustment because I need to move the lower hole about a 1/2".

I understand what you're saying about relief for the screw head in the pad and I was thinking of drilling a countersink hole to accommodate for that issue. The only other solution I can think of is to buy one those mounting bases intended for use on synthetic stock. However, I'm reluctant to remove another 1/2 inch of stock on that gamble.

 

[Shriner]

You could try cutting a plug from the pad useing a piece of metal tubing 1/4" or smaller like a keyhole saw,just sharpen egde or cut teeth in it . Could just PM HoneyBeefor advice he is a gun smithy.

 

[Rob72]

Ace Hardware sells hole-cutting punches, as does harbor Freight. If you can't find one large enough, Ace also sells stainless tubing in 12" lengths. Use a 45* chamfer cutter to sharpen the edge and hammer home.

 

[greg1996zz]

I went home at lunch and looked things over again. It turns out the mortise in the stock is exactly 1" wide and half round at the bottom. Therefore, I ought to be able to split a 1" dowel in half and epoxy that in place. With the dowel rod split, I should still be able to get at the stock screw should I ever need to do so and have plenty of wood for the screw to grip. Since the pilot hole for the pad screw will be at an angle to the stock and support block the screw will go through both pieces of wood. I had a 7/8" dowel at the house and it was a very close fit--1" ought to be perfect.

I called the nice folks at Lyman/Pachmayr and they told me that I could drill a hole in the pad and as long as I got the screw through the metal plate in the pad it should work fine and they gave me the plate measurements to help me on my way. They said the results just might not be as pretty as they intended their pads to be. However, I am glad I'm not going to have to relocate the pad hole.

Thanks very much for your help and I'll post an update when the project is done. It seems I always spend more time planning, measuring and fussing over projects than actually working on them.