Automotive composite caliper pistons have been know to swell over time and cause similar problems. They should be an easy slip fit without the seals.
Just a thought. Luck.
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Just a thought. Luck.
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Is there a manifold block on it anywhere for the lines? Is so it could have a check valve/ball maybe sticking? If not I'm thinking it's in a caliper or the master cylinder like swampratt said.
Now another test would be to get the caliper to the locked up stage.
Then loosen the line going into the master cylinder.
If the pressure releases from the caliper then the issue is in the master cylinder.
If the brake is still locked up after that move down to the next junction and test until you finally get to the caliper line.
You will for sure diagnose which part is bad doing it like that.
Then loosen the line going into the master cylinder.
If the pressure releases from the caliper then the issue is in the master cylinder.
If the brake is still locked up after that move down to the next junction and test until you finally get to the caliper line.
You will for sure diagnose which part is bad doing it like that.
My folks have a 4WD Grizzly, though I forget the year. As I recall, the only thing that pressurizes the front brakes is squeezing the hand brake lever, so you must have a restriction in the hydraulic lines somewhere. You’re pressurizing it when you squeeze the lever, and the restriction is preventing the pressure from being fully released, so every time you squeeze the lever, you add a little more pressure to the system. That points to a pinched hydraulic line, a bad master cylinder, or an obstruction in the line, probably where it splits.
There’s only a single line coming out of the master cylinder, but it has brakes on both front wheels, so there has to be a junction block somewhere in there to split the line.
Are both front brakes locking up, or just one? If it’s one, you know the problem is between the junction block and that caliper. If it’s both, it has to be in the junction block, the hose from the master cylinder to the junction block, or the master cylinder.
There’s only a single line coming out of the master cylinder, but it has brakes on both front wheels, so there has to be a junction block somewhere in there to split the line.
Are both front brakes locking up, or just one? If it’s one, you know the problem is between the junction block and that caliper. If it’s both, it has to be in the junction block, the hose from the master cylinder to the junction block, or the master cylinder.
As with any troubleshooting adventure, there are procedures to follow. Divide and conquer.
1. The brakes did work correctly at one time
2. After a period of time, the brakes stopped working
3. Was there any occurrence that happened just before the problem?
4. Was the problem a gradual problem or all of a sudden failure?
5. Divide the work into smaller pieces, Hydraulics, mechanical.
6. After working on the hydraulic system, the problem still exists
7. Apparently the work performed was not the fix of the problem.
8. You have now to work on the mechanical.
9. Divide and conquer!
Were the symptoms you describe the reason for the master cylinder rebuild?
After the rebuild, the same symptoms exist, or are they different, or maybe a bit better?
You said that you replaced all three hoses. Are any of the hoses kinked? This would cause a kind of a check valve effect. Your brake master pressure would easily overcome the blockage but the kink is not overcome by the lack of backpressure.
Have you checked the function of the brake pads and pistons? Are they sticking? Apparently, they release after you bleed them. Do they release immediately or gradually?
There are two holes in the master cylinder. The large one supplies fluid when the lever is pulled and the small one allows fluid to flow back into the MC when the lever is released. Remove the MC cap and if the holes are covered use a pick to remove the cover. Pull the lever and fluid should squirt out of the small hole. I've seen people replace the MC internals but not clean out the small hole.
Did you blow out the steel line, you could have a piece of trash in there causing it to trap fluid. also those new rubber lines could have trash in there from the manufacturer.
I agree with Okierider. I think you may have some trash/piece of metal/rubber what ever in the line. Like spd said. Drain and blow out the line and cylinder as well. Something is causing a pressure issue. I had a tiny bit of similar issue with the front disk breaks on my 75 360T. I blew out the lines with just some air pressure and refilled the cylinder...pumped it up and everything was good. Not sure if the draining or the air pressure in the line fixed it. Worth a try.
I'm going to need some Honda parts (don't have to be factory), any on local? I also need a good price of painting my tank and side panels. When I get them ready. I'll probably just hand sand and rattle can the frame myself. It's in pretty good shape but I'm sure I'll need touch up but not going to do a full sandblast and powder coating. That cost is nuts.
I'm going to need some Honda parts (don't have to be factory), any on local? I also need a good price of painting my tank and side panels. When I get them ready. I'll probably just hand sand and rattle can the frame myself. It's in pretty good shape but I'm sure I'll need touch up but not going to do a full sandblast and powder coating. That cost is nuts.
Was the disc thickness within spec? I just wondered if the pistons traveled too far out of their bores could they bind up.
