PLEASE Help me with finishing Maple Revolver Grips

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I seal maple rifle stocks with a mixture of boiled linseed oil, satin polyurethane, and turpentine. I hand rub the mixture in then let it set for 24 hrs. This seals the wood and begins the finish process all in one.
I then sand the wood with 600 wet/ dry , wipe it dow in with a tiny bit of mineral spirits. Set for 2 hrs then repeat the process again . Each tim I up the sand paper to 800 then 1000 grit. Finally. After completing the 3 rd or 4 th time I use pumice and olive oil to get the desired gloss and smoothnesss I want.
On small projects like this this would be a snap. If you decide u r interested, send them to me and I’ll do them for free. Pay it forward then .

Blond maple like that is FAR too pretty to EVER stain. Please please don’t do that to them
Thank you @crrcboatz I really appreciate the offer and may take you up on it. I have a couple questions for you.

1. Do you have any picture samples of what the finished product looks like.

2. Would you consider sharing the ratio of components? (I may want to try to accomplish myself?)

I really appreciated your input and willingness to help.
 
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Pretty. Go a path that's not trod by everyone else. I, but that's an odd I, would burn it with a torch and then put a few layers of varnish. VERY COOL and I've never seen it on a pistol grip. I've done it on work benches, shadow boxes bar tops...
Regardless. Test on some simular grained/type sanded wood. You'll find the one that works for you.

Hmmm, that’s an idea. I have a Lichtenberg burning apparatus - yes, it’s very dangerous if you’re not very careful - but the idea of fractal-burned pistol grips is alluring. I just might have to order a set of plain grips and try burning them like this image from the web:

1639795168118.jpeg
 

SPDguns

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Do I let it dry between applications of the Minwax stain? What is the best way to apply? Will an old cotton tshirt suffice? Do I need to worry about staining and sealing the back side?
Yes, a clean cotton shirt will work. Let it dry about a day between coats. If the grain raises, use 0000 steel wool between coats. No need to stain/seal the back of the grips unless you want to, S&W doesn't on theirs. If you seal the wood first, it won't accept the stain.
 
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Yes, a clean cotton shirt will work. Let it dry about a day between coats. If the grain raises, use 0000 steel wool between coats. No need to stain/seal the back of the grips unless you want to, S&W doesn't on theirs. If you seal the wood first, it won't accept the stain.
Would not get steel wool within a mile of such pretty wood. I don’t own any and never will. I use wet dr up to 2500 grit.
 
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Thank you @crrcboatz I really appreciate the offer and may take you up on it. I have a couple questions for you.

1. Do you have any picture samples of what the finished product looks like.

2. Would you consider sharing the ratio of components? (I may want to try to accomplish myself?)

I really appreciated your input and willingness to help.
Call me tomorrow if you can. I’ll send u a pm with my number i
 
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I seal maple rifle stocks with a mixture of boiled linseed oil, satin polyurethane, and turpentine. I hand rub the mixture in then let it set for 24 hrs. This seals the wood and begins the finish process all in one.
I then sand the wood with 600 wet/ dry , wipe it dow in with a tiny bit of mineral spirits. Set for 2 hrs then repeat the process again . Each tim I up the sand paper to 800 then 1000 grit. Finally. After completing the 3 rd or 4 th time I use pumice and olive oil to get the desired gloss and smoothnesss I want.
On small projects like this this would be a snap. If you decide u r interested, send them to me and I’ll do them for free. Pay it forward then .

Blond maple like that is FAR too pretty to EVER stain. Please please don’t do that to them
That concoction is called Danish Oil. It's a great way to finish and would be good on these. I personally would sand to 220 and flood it in. Then wet sand in multiple coats like you state with finer grits with each coat. You can get a glass like finish this way with no real buildup. I hate 'plasticy" thick films on wood. You just don't want to sand too fine before you hit the wood with the finish because you can "polish" the wood to where it won't let any finish penetrate. I've also been known to substitute pure tung oil for the BLO but either works since the poly does the protecting.
 

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