Polisher/Buffer

[Cohiba]

I'd love to use a smooth...smooth....did I mention a smooth and soft pad and polisher.

Any recommendations...brand? What pads to use?

All I want is to shine...super shine up my new 2024 black Camaro. Yes I'll clay bar/ mit it first...but I'm scared to death I'll screw it up with a polisher.

I have been using a two bucket method on hand washing...using chemical guys, griots and meguiars. I'm ultra sensitive on swirls...and have avoided them.

Trust me it shines...but I'd like to..do it myself and avoid a detailer making swirls.


Why am I scared but want to use a polisher?!!

Yes...I have watched a ton of videos on YouTube.

 

[Mr.Glock]

@swampratt knows how to shine automotive and marine. He brought me a piece of rr steel as an anvil and you could use it like a mirror. I learned how to re clear headlights from him.

I’d be scared as you on a such a new vehicle. I’d pay someone professional as I don’t know how to be confident.

 

[swampratt]

You do not need a power polisher unless the paint is really bad and even then I have never needed one.
I did use a drill with polishing pads on my pontoon boat to polish the aluminum toons to mirror finish and the rouge I used was so fine.

My son has some polish that will make old glass look clear and even it would scratch my toons.

For my automotive paint finishes that have scratch or swirl marks i use a hand terry cloth or other fine soft towels or microfiber.

I also use this to remove scratch marks and swirls.
After I paint a vehicle and color sand it the final step for me is the hand towel and this stuff.
If you do not have scratches then do not use anything.
Try this stuff on a small spot that has scratches and see what results you get.
I use it to polish the inside of my reloading dies also.

 

[Ready_fire_aim]

Yeah I’ll be the 3rd to recommended you NOT use a buffer/polisher. When I was in my early twenties I did auto detailing as a side gig for extra cash. I’d only break out a buffer if the paint was in poor condition. I’ll use it on faded boats and such. Never on a new car lol

 

[Hooper]

That Meguiar's is good stuff,
I would not use anything with abrasives in it, a new car only needs the ultimate polish

 

[Hooper]

Go to the Meguiar's website and follow there directions for new car paint detail.
They list about three steps.
Just a hand wash with there Ultimate wash, with soft water, and an ultimate wax job, will make it shine, but if you are really energetic the pre wax glaze, then ultimate wax.
I would not use any type of machine on new paint myself. Just clean high quality microfiber cloth, make sure you have plenty of clean microfiber, dirty clothes are where the swirls and scratches come from, or a surface that is not clean to start with.

If you are real serious they offer online detail classes on the Meguiar website.

Meguiar's Direct

MeguiarsDirect.com is the Official site for Meguiar's, the trusted experts in surface care since 1901. Find all of your favorite Meguiar's products, plus tips and advice on how to get the results you've always dreamed of.

www.meguiarsdirect.com

 

[trekrok]

You do not need a power polisher unless the paint is really bad and even then I have never needed one.
I did use a drill with polishing pads on my pontoon boat to polish the aluminum toons to mirror finish and the rouge I used was so fine.

My son has some polish that will make old glass look clear and even it would scratch my toons.

For my automotive paint finishes that have scratch or swirl marks i use a hand terry cloth or other fine soft towels or microfiber.

I also use this to remove scratch marks and swirls.
After I paint a vehicle and color sand it the final step for me is the hand towel and this stuff.
If you do not have scratches then do not use anything.
Try this stuff on a small spot that has scratches and see what results you get.
I use it to polish the inside of my reloading dies also.


View attachment 538400

Off-topic, but where do you buy your automotive paint?

 

[swampratt]

Off-topic, but where do you buy your automotive paint?

Crown paint supplied me with many gallons of industrial enamel and the poly converter/hardener and then the paint shop behind steves wholesale on 23rd and walker in okc.

Palace auto supply in Norman had excellent paint but is now permanently closed.
They would mix it in a spray can and it was excellent.

Other places can mix it in a can I believe.
That is handy if you are just doing a fender or a hood on a car and they can match it by the paint code.
I would always get Lacquer and they asked why.
I told them I can buff it to the same shine as the rest of the car and you would never tell it was repainted.

 

[Hooper]

You do not need a power polisher unless the paint is really bad and even then I have never needed one.
I did use a drill with polishing pads on my pontoon boat to polish the aluminum toons to mirror finish and the rouge I used was so fine.

My son has some polish that will make old glass look clear and even it would scratch my toons.

For my automotive paint finishes that have scratch or swirl marks i use a hand terry cloth or other fine soft towels or microfiber.

I also use this to remove scratch marks and swirls.
After I paint a vehicle and color sand it the final step for me is the hand towel and this stuff.
If you do not have scratches then do not use anything.
Try this stuff on a small spot that has scratches and see what results you get.
I use it to polish the inside of my reloading dies also.


View attachment 538400

I put a couple of drops of the polish in my tumbler when tumbling my brass.
I use white rice for media.
If the brass is pretty fresh, not tarnished to bad, it really does a good job, it feels like it is lubed for prep work already.
If it has any old tarnish, I will start with a teaspoon of acetone in the rice, give it a good tumble, then retumble with new rice and wax polish.
I use BB's in the rice also.
Biggest problem is the rice will get stuck in flash holes, 223 brass will pack with rice too. All other brass it works great, and cheap.

 

[trekrok]

Crown paint supplied me with many gallons of industrial enamel and the poly converter/hardener and and then the paint shop behind steves wholesale on 23rd and walker in okc.

Palace auto supply in Norman had excellent paint but is now permanently closed.
They would mix it in a spray can and it was excellent.

Other places can mix it in a can I believe.
That is handy if you are just doing a fender or a hood on a car and they can match it by the paint code.
I would always get Lacquer and they asked why.
I told them I can buff it to the same shine of the rest of the car and you would never tell it was repainted.

Thanks. Most paint places really don't seem to want to deal with a guy off the street. I'll check these out next time.