Does it coat well?
Contact @swampratt
Black does fair. Mix b&w 50/50, does pretty good.
Takes some experimenting, narrow band of requirements for getting good coat and finish. (Time, temp)
Search auto paint supplier to find a Tulsa dealer.
Seems like I remember the red being mentioned as good, but looks like they don’t sell anymore. Went ahead and ordered from Eastwood. It has good reviews. Trying to cut out a lot of experimenting while starting
I used HF powderocoat at first, thought it was OK, but then ordered blue powder from Amazon. Don't remember the brand, it wasn't Prismatic or Eastwood, but it works so much better, and easier to get good even coating. The HF, even the old red they have discontinued would be splotchy.
Yes. I dont have any issues with it. Just coating the bullets, not Rembrandt quality though.
That's who taught me
I found the HF red and the Eastwood light Ford blue coat the same for me.
But I cast my bullets and water drop them in a clean bucket and a clean towel (washed in all free and clear) (No drier sheets used in this house either ) in the bottom or paper towels in the bottom as a cushion.
My hands are clean and oil free when i remove bullets and dry them.
Then the shake and bake method of coating and cooking.
I stack the bullets on their bottoms and on parchment paper.
White Harbor freight was horrible at coating.
White mixed with the red did very well and you get bubblegum color
I have not tried black.
The key is clean fresh oil free bullets for coating.
If you store them and they begin to get whitish colored then they will not powder coat well.
I have used paint thinner to remove Alox from bullets and powder coated them.
Worked well but 3 rounds in thinner with a clean batch each time.
Lots of work.
I did find something out a couple months ago shooting 110 and 296 powder with Powder coated soft lead which was 50-50 pure soft/clip on wheel weight and shot the same load with all clip on wheel weight with Alox and copper gas check.
The high velocity of near max load of those 2 powders was too much for the softer powder coated bullet.
It hit the paper target sideways.
I have not tried a harder alloy powder coated.
Not often do i shoot max load 357 Magnum as I found better accuracy with lighter loadings even gas checked.
But I cast my bullets and water drop them in a clean bucket and a clean towel (washed in all free and clear) (No drier sheets used in this house either ) in the bottom or paper towels in the bottom as a cushion.
My hands are clean and oil free when i remove bullets and dry them.
Then the shake and bake method of coating and cooking.
I stack the bullets on their bottoms and on parchment paper.
White Harbor freight was horrible at coating.
White mixed with the red did very well and you get bubblegum color
I have not tried black.
The key is clean fresh oil free bullets for coating.
If you store them and they begin to get whitish colored then they will not powder coat well.
I have used paint thinner to remove Alox from bullets and powder coated them.
Worked well but 3 rounds in thinner with a clean batch each time.
Lots of work.
I did find something out a couple months ago shooting 110 and 296 powder with Powder coated soft lead which was 50-50 pure soft/clip on wheel weight and shot the same load with all clip on wheel weight with Alox and copper gas check.
The high velocity of near max load of those 2 powders was too much for the softer powder coated bullet.
It hit the paper target sideways.
I have not tried a harder alloy powder coated.
Not often do i shoot max load 357 Magnum as I found better accuracy with lighter loadings even gas checked.
