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The Water Cooler
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<blockquote data-quote="aestus" data-source="post: 1707438" data-attributes="member: 2989"><p>The rear sight assembly assembly is held on with 2 steel pins and a dovetail rail. Some are welded onto the rail. If you knock out the the two pins, you can simply knock the assembly off the 3/8" (11mm) dovetail rail. If it's soldered on, you'll either have to heat the assembly or just beat the crap out of it until the solder breaks.</p><p></p><p>The 3/8" (11mm) rail accepts any 3.8" rings that you would use on .22lr rifle or pellet guns. I used medium height rings and attached them so the base of where the rings clamps onto the dovetail rail lines up above where the original pin holes are located. Using a drill and the pin holes as a guide, I "notched" the base of the rings and reinserted the original steel pins that were used to hold the rear sight assembly in place. This keeps the rings and the scope from creeping forward from the recoil.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="aestus, post: 1707438, member: 2989"] The rear sight assembly assembly is held on with 2 steel pins and a dovetail rail. Some are welded onto the rail. If you knock out the the two pins, you can simply knock the assembly off the 3/8" (11mm) dovetail rail. If it's soldered on, you'll either have to heat the assembly or just beat the crap out of it until the solder breaks. The 3/8" (11mm) rail accepts any 3.8" rings that you would use on .22lr rifle or pellet guns. I used medium height rings and attached them so the base of where the rings clamps onto the dovetail rail lines up above where the original pin holes are located. Using a drill and the pin holes as a guide, I "notched" the base of the rings and reinserted the original steel pins that were used to hold the rear sight assembly in place. This keeps the rings and the scope from creeping forward from the recoil. [/QUOTE]
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