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The Range
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Talk to me about Kydex
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<blockquote data-quote="Mad Professor" data-source="post: 3353092" data-attributes="member: 5316"><p>Terry, do you want me to name holster makers that I feel are making an inferior product? I’m not sure I know many that I could identify. Some I have came across by buying guns that cane with a holster or other package deals. Many I have seen in various classes I have attended or assisted with. When I see someone struggling to draw or holster their gun, I usually start playing close attention. If you are accidentally or negligently shot, the chances are pretty high that you shot yourself. And it usually occurs on drawing or holstering the gun. </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>What I was referring to is some might not form/cut the holster correctly to allow a full firing grip before removing the gun. Usually by not giving enough clearance in the bottom of the trigger guard near the grip. Sometimes by t having enough clearance in the belt. This is most common in IWB holsters than OWB holsters. You have to be able to get the exact strong hand position against the tang and trigger guard that you plan on firing the gun with. You don’t have time to move it around when you need the gun the most. </p><p></p><p>A lack of definition in the forming of the kydex around the gun is usually a sign the holster is not fit well. </p><p></p><p>Not blocking out bumps and controls correctly in the holster so that the gun pushes against areas in the holster after the initial release but during the draw. The gun should insert in the holster and not have any drag until the last 3/16-3/8”. </p><p></p><p>Retention too loose or too tight. The holster should retain the firearm enough to prevent it from falling out. But not enough to impede the draw. Many I see are so tight people have difficult in drawing. You see their whole holster, belt, and pants come up an inch or more while trying to draw. </p><p>There should be a very slight amount of free space when the holster is all the way inserted. A few thousandths of an inch. This allows a slight bit of run before hitting the retention. This allows a bit more retention while still allowing ease in overcoming that tension. I’ve had to adjust this on most holsters I have bought and even fixed several friends have bought. </p><p></p><p>Clips and mounting hardware that are more concerned with the ease of putting the holster on than in keeping it secure on the body. </p><p></p><p>A lot of things seem to “work” until you get them in a situation where they do not. </p><p></p><p>Things like sweat guards should not get in the way. On OWB holsters I usually prefer the sweat guard to be “less than full”. None, or short. I’m ok with full if it is very tight against the gun and doesn’t interfere with getting that initial full grip. </p><p></p><p>Not enough sight rail clearance and the front sight drags on the holster while it is being drawn. </p><p></p><p></p><p>I’d have to play with that one from Urban Carry. </p><p>A really good fit leather holster has retention from just being fit well. But you will encounter friction all the way out during the draw. That is the reason it leads to a slightly slower draw time. I don’t see that holster eliminating the drag on the draw. So my first guess is they are trying to fix an issue that should not exist to begin with. </p><p></p><p>Now security holsters is an entirely different game. Not at what I’m talking about in this thread.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Mad Professor, post: 3353092, member: 5316"] Terry, do you want me to name holster makers that I feel are making an inferior product? I’m not sure I know many that I could identify. Some I have came across by buying guns that cane with a holster or other package deals. Many I have seen in various classes I have attended or assisted with. When I see someone struggling to draw or holster their gun, I usually start playing close attention. If you are accidentally or negligently shot, the chances are pretty high that you shot yourself. And it usually occurs on drawing or holstering the gun. What I was referring to is some might not form/cut the holster correctly to allow a full firing grip before removing the gun. Usually by not giving enough clearance in the bottom of the trigger guard near the grip. Sometimes by t having enough clearance in the belt. This is most common in IWB holsters than OWB holsters. You have to be able to get the exact strong hand position against the tang and trigger guard that you plan on firing the gun with. You don’t have time to move it around when you need the gun the most. A lack of definition in the forming of the kydex around the gun is usually a sign the holster is not fit well. Not blocking out bumps and controls correctly in the holster so that the gun pushes against areas in the holster after the initial release but during the draw. The gun should insert in the holster and not have any drag until the last 3/16-3/8”. Retention too loose or too tight. The holster should retain the firearm enough to prevent it from falling out. But not enough to impede the draw. Many I see are so tight people have difficult in drawing. You see their whole holster, belt, and pants come up an inch or more while trying to draw. There should be a very slight amount of free space when the holster is all the way inserted. A few thousandths of an inch. This allows a slight bit of run before hitting the retention. This allows a bit more retention while still allowing ease in overcoming that tension. I’ve had to adjust this on most holsters I have bought and even fixed several friends have bought. Clips and mounting hardware that are more concerned with the ease of putting the holster on than in keeping it secure on the body. A lot of things seem to “work” until you get them in a situation where they do not. Things like sweat guards should not get in the way. On OWB holsters I usually prefer the sweat guard to be “less than full”. None, or short. I’m ok with full if it is very tight against the gun and doesn’t interfere with getting that initial full grip. Not enough sight rail clearance and the front sight drags on the holster while it is being drawn. I’d have to play with that one from Urban Carry. A really good fit leather holster has retention from just being fit well. But you will encounter friction all the way out during the draw. That is the reason it leads to a slightly slower draw time. I don’t see that holster eliminating the drag on the draw. So my first guess is they are trying to fix an issue that should not exist to begin with. Now security holsters is an entirely different game. Not at what I’m talking about in this thread. [/QUOTE]
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