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The Range
Gear Talk
The EDC Flashlight Thread
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<blockquote data-quote="Glocktogo" data-source="post: 1827265" data-attributes="member: 1132"><p>LED emitter is a must. They last longer, are more durable and use less juice than incandescent lamps do. </p><p></p><p>A tactical light should have a tailcap switch that can be used in momentary or constant on. Some type of anti-roll feature such as a hex head bezel ring is nice in case you have to lay it down, as is a tailstand so you can use it as a lamp if needed. </p><p></p><p>Run time should be at east an hour and a half. </p><p></p><p>You need to consider whether you'd be better served by a spot or flood style beam (which is why I prefer the Cree XML, because it does both). A lamp with a tightly focused beam will usually have more "throw", which may be important if what you use the light to illuminate is farther away.</p><p></p><p>Some people say you can have too many lumens, but I've more often found that not enough is the case. You can always use your hand or an object to filter the light output down if needed. </p><p></p><p>Some people like multiple switching options, such as low/high beam, strobe, etc. That's fine on an everyday general use light, but I prefer single mode lights for tactical work. </p><p></p><p>Above all, durability and reliability are a must have. Some of the cheap Chinese lights are not. Surefire lights are expensive, and worth the coin. They may not be cutting edge, but they're the most reliable. </p><p></p><p>Finally, when dealing with lights, the old adage of "Two is one and one is none" is true. Nothing worse than having your only available light crap out on you at a critical moment (I've seen it happen at low-light pistol matches). I generally carry the Centurion in my pocket and a weapon mounted light. If the hand held craps out in a general use scenario, you can dismount the weapon light and use it as a handheld in a pinch (which I've done).</p><p></p><p>Hope this helps!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Glocktogo, post: 1827265, member: 1132"] LED emitter is a must. They last longer, are more durable and use less juice than incandescent lamps do. A tactical light should have a tailcap switch that can be used in momentary or constant on. Some type of anti-roll feature such as a hex head bezel ring is nice in case you have to lay it down, as is a tailstand so you can use it as a lamp if needed. Run time should be at east an hour and a half. You need to consider whether you'd be better served by a spot or flood style beam (which is why I prefer the Cree XML, because it does both). A lamp with a tightly focused beam will usually have more "throw", which may be important if what you use the light to illuminate is farther away. Some people say you can have too many lumens, but I've more often found that not enough is the case. You can always use your hand or an object to filter the light output down if needed. Some people like multiple switching options, such as low/high beam, strobe, etc. That's fine on an everyday general use light, but I prefer single mode lights for tactical work. Above all, durability and reliability are a must have. Some of the cheap Chinese lights are not. Surefire lights are expensive, and worth the coin. They may not be cutting edge, but they're the most reliable. Finally, when dealing with lights, the old adage of "Two is one and one is none" is true. Nothing worse than having your only available light crap out on you at a critical moment (I've seen it happen at low-light pistol matches). I generally carry the Centurion in my pocket and a weapon mounted light. If the hand held craps out in a general use scenario, you can dismount the weapon light and use it as a handheld in a pinch (which I've done). Hope this helps! [/QUOTE]
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