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The Water Cooler
Stupid Stuff
There are still some artists/musicians who "get it"
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<blockquote data-quote="tRidiot" data-source="post: 2881458" data-attributes="member: 9374"><p>GT-R FTMFW. <img src="/images/smilies/biggrin.png" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" data-shortname=":D" /> Someday...</p><p></p><p>The battery is really only useful when powering the system with the motor off. If it's running, the alt should keep the voltage high enough... if you get voltage drop below 12V, then it'll pull momentarily from the battery... mine will do this if I've got it really cranked - yet another reason I think all 3 of my alts are not working properly. With as much current as I <strong>should be</strong> supplying, voltage drop shouldn't be much of a possibility, even with the power I am drawing. Unfortunately, although I have an in-dash voltmeter (besides the stock one), we did not wire in the capability to monitor each alternator individually. So that's the next step. Totally separating the stereo electrical system on 2 alternators from the truck's stock electrical system on one alternator. I have an MLA module that is supposed to "control" the alternators, but there is no way to even know if it is functioning, nor to monitor it... so I am thinking about pulling that. We'll see... it's a challenge, for sure, but it's a hobby, so... <img src="/images/smilies/biggrin.png" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" data-shortname=":D" /></p><p></p><p>I think for 99.9% of regular street systems out there, I'd just recommend a high-amp alternator and solid wiring and call it good. I've had tons of trouble with my triple-alternator setup. <sigh> Hoping to work that all out and have all the monitoring capability I could want in the longrun. <img src="/images/smilies/biggrin.png" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" data-shortname=":D" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tRidiot, post: 2881458, member: 9374"] GT-R FTMFW. :D Someday... The battery is really only useful when powering the system with the motor off. If it's running, the alt should keep the voltage high enough... if you get voltage drop below 12V, then it'll pull momentarily from the battery... mine will do this if I've got it really cranked - yet another reason I think all 3 of my alts are not working properly. With as much current as I [B]should be[/B] supplying, voltage drop shouldn't be much of a possibility, even with the power I am drawing. Unfortunately, although I have an in-dash voltmeter (besides the stock one), we did not wire in the capability to monitor each alternator individually. So that's the next step. Totally separating the stereo electrical system on 2 alternators from the truck's stock electrical system on one alternator. I have an MLA module that is supposed to "control" the alternators, but there is no way to even know if it is functioning, nor to monitor it... so I am thinking about pulling that. We'll see... it's a challenge, for sure, but it's a hobby, so... :D I think for 99.9% of regular street systems out there, I'd just recommend a high-amp alternator and solid wiring and call it good. I've had tons of trouble with my triple-alternator setup. <sigh> Hoping to work that all out and have all the monitoring capability I could want in the longrun. :D [/QUOTE]
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