Updated with 2nd round results - Began new load development today for the 6.5CM

[thor447]

I got out to Lexington today with a friend of mine and did some chrono testing on this new 6.5CM load. Without posting tons of data, here's what took 1st prize today.

6.5CM - CCI LRP's, Lapua brass, H4350, 150gr Sierra Match King - all shots taken at 100 yards.

1. Not record setting numbers, but pretty decent. The 6 o'clock shot was the last one in the group, and I'm chalking that one up to shooter error. 2nd group listed below had the same thing!
Description: 40.2
# FPS FT-LBS PF
4 2691 0.00 0.00
3 2680 0.00 0.00
2 2704 0.00 0.00
1 2682 0.00 0.00
SD: 10.9 FPS
Min: 2680 FPS
Max: 2704 FPS
Spread: 24 FPS

2. The best SD and ES I've ever gotten before from a single string. The first three shots were all touching, and I was stupid enough to see it and get nervous on the last shot, which went low (and I'm betting was fully shooter error).
Description: 40.4
# FPS FT-LBS PF
4 2706 0.00 0.00
3 2701 0.00 0.00
2 2701 0.00 0.00
1 2691 0.00 0.00
SD: 6.3 FPS
Min: 2691 FPS
Max: 2706 FPS
Spread: 15 FPS
Shot/sec: 0.1
True MV: 2700 FPS

All of these shots were taken on new Lapua brass. Now that I have fireformed brass, I'll try to get out again soon, with some loaded up in this powder range & CBTO. I've very pleased with the consistency of the brass. I prepped 50 pieces of fire formed Lapua brass this past week. All shoulders set back .002, all lengths were identical, neck tensions set with the mandrel at .002 as well. Hopefully I can get good results with the fired brass. I may have to tweak it a little further, but I'm pleased thus far. If I can shoot better and eliminate some of the jitters when I have a good group going, I think my rounds are capable, but I'll take 6.3 SD's all day long!!

 

[magna19]

Nice!!!! Single digit SD is hard to get. I missed what gun your shooting

 

[thor447]

Browning X-Bolt

 

[swampratt]

@thor447 I was there Friday in my Camo Corolla and a guy was shooting a Browning X bolt beside me but his scope was moving in the mounts.
I think he had store ammo.

I have found the Lapua cases shoot better for round 2.
I brush the case necks inside as they are rough as new and that helps tighten the groups.
That 4th shot is what I would sometimes see with untouched Lapua cases.

I anneal all my Lapua cases each time now after the first out of the box firing.
I tried not annealing and little fliers in the group confirmed I needed to anneal.

Of course that was .308 cases and not the Creedmoor.
Congratulations on the good groups and shooting.
Keep it up.

 

[thor447]

@thor447 I was there Friday in my Camo Corolla and a guy was shooting a Browning X bolt beside me but his scope was moving in the mounts.
I think he had store ammo.

I have found the Lapua cases shoot better for round 2.
I brush the case necks inside as they are rough as new and that helps tighten the groups.
That 4th shot is what I would sometimes see with untouched Lapua cases.

I anneal all my Lapua cases each time now after the first out of the box firing.
I tried not annealing and little fliers in the group confirmed I needed to anneal.

Of course that was .308 cases and not the Creedmoor.
Congratulations on the good groups and shooting.
Keep it up.

Thanks a bunch. The one thing I haven't done yet is anneal any cases. I have all of the fire formed brass, and now debating if I want to get my feet wet with annealing. Just not sure yet if I want to sacrifice a few of my Lapua cases for the learning curve. I'll probably grab a few random range pickup pieces of brass and try it out. Do you recommend using 750 degree Tempilaq, or do you go straight from the color when you are annealing?

 

[swampratt]

I have used Tempilaq and on the same case with it I applied a stripe with a Sharpie brand permanent marker.
Both supplied an indication of the right annealed temp at the same time.
Sharpie was much easier to see as it will disappear.

A friend supplied the Tempilaq and found he was actually annealing much too long as he was waiting
for it to liquify and it needs to be applied to the inside of the neck and that is hard to see when annealing.

Sharpie line from case mouth down the shoulder and watch it fade with the heat.

 

[thor447]

I have used Tempilaq and on the same case with it I applied a stripe with a Sharpie brand permanent marker.
Both supplied an indication of the right annealed temp at the same time.
Sharpie was much easier to see as it will disappear.

A friend supplied the Tempilaq and found he was actually annealing much too long as he was waiting
for it to liquify and it needs to be applied to the inside of the neck and that is hard to see when annealing.

Sharpie line from case mouth down the shoulder and watch it fade with the heat.

Awesome, thanks a bunch!