Upper receiver tools

[Cold Smoke]

I’m finally getting a little further into AR mods than just popping a couple of pins and swapping tops. I’m not sure which of the two listed tools is better for torquing the barrel nut.
Also, how often do you utilize barrel shims for headspacing? No poll on that point.

 

[SPDguns]

Headspace is set at the factory between the barrel extension and the bolt, shims aren't needed. Also, there is a torque range for the barrel nut. If you are using a notched barrel OEM style nut, be sure and align the nut on the tightening stroke, don't loosen it to align the nut.

 

[Cold Smoke]

Further investigation indicates that the barrel shims are for timing the barrel nut for free float handguards. The 30-80 ft/lb barrel nut torque is probably the most generous torque spec I’ve ever heard of.

A CMM would go a long way to blue printing the components on the front side. If I ever get a chance to build another shop, the ISO certified lab will be one of the very first elements to implement.

 

[SPDguns]

Further investigation indicates that the barrel shims are for timing the barrel nut for free float handguards. The 30-80 ft/lb barrel nut torque is probably the most generous torque spec I’ve ever heard of.

Ok, yes that makes sense...

 

[JEVapa]

I’m not sure which of the two listed tools is better for torquing the barrel nut.
Also, how often do you utilize barrel shims for headspacing? No poll on that point.

I use a vice block but I've moved to an action rod. The vice block is still good for torquing the barrel nut but not so much for anything else IMO.
You still need to lock the barrel (in a barrel vice or action rod) for torqued MD especially for suppressor use.

I use barrel nut shims only for timing a pesky barrel nut. Never for headspace - per what @SPDguns says. Don't stick the shim in between the receiver face and the barrel extension, just between the extension (flange) and the nut. I know some guys that use shim material around the barrel extension to "bed" the barrel, makes sense I guess but I don't think it helps enough to mess with it, unless your barrel just rattles around in the receiver.

The 30-80 ft/lb barrel nut torque is probably the most generous torque spec I’ve ever heard of.

This is for timing your barrel nut that has holes and/or notches in it for your gas tube. If you have a non-timed barrel nut like a DD or midwest industries that is round and sits under the gas tube and has a clamp for a free float tube then --> 34ft lb. Some places say 35, some 40, some 60, but just refer to a 23&P.

Get a 23&P...must have. NO RED THREADLOCKER EVER ANYWHERE ON AN AR

http://www.combatsimulations.com/ar15/manuals/tm 9-1005-319-23&p.pdf

 

[Cold Smoke]

nut. I know some guys that use shim material around the barrel extension to "bed" the barrel, makes sense I guess but I don't think it helps enough to mess with it, unless your barrel just rattles around in the receiver.

I don’t really know how well a person could bed against an aluminum receiver with anything that would hold up. Actually I can think of one or two possibilities but I don’t think either of them produce juice proportional to the squeeze. The best trunnion fit I’ve ever seen was on a Chey-Tac Windrunner 25 years ago. I was told they were wire EDM cut and honed. I swear you could hear the air whoosh out when you assembled that rifle. That one is going in my encyclopedia of dumbass decisions.

Basically what I’m understanding is that to optimize an AR build a guy needs ginormous bins of parts, a well lit inspection bench with all the Starrett goodies and some soothing music in the background. If you can spec the first one hundred pieces after setup sign off even mo better.

 

[CAR-AR-M16]

I use the Magpul BEV.

https://magpul.com/bev-block-ar15-m4.html?mp_global_color=118

 

[Cold Smoke]

I use the Magpul BEV.

https://magpul.com/bev-block-ar15-m4.html?mp_global_color=118

I like that. That’s going on the list.

 

[SPDguns]

Brownell's makes a set of tools to lap (bed) the barrel to the receiver. IMO, other than making you feel good, it's not necessary. In the hundreds (not a typo) I've worked on, it's never been an issue.

I've attached a Brownell's "Smyth Busters" video. Great info, draw your own conclusion.

https://www.brownells.com/the-trigg...smyth-busters-should-you-bed-an-ar-15-barrel/

 

[JEVapa]

I don’t really know how well a person could bed against an aluminum receiver with anything that would hold up. Actually I can think of one or two possibilities but I don’t think either of them produce juice proportional to the squeeze. The best trunnion fit I’ve ever seen was on a Chey-Tac Windrunner 25 years ago. I was told they were wire EDM cut and honed. I swear you could hear the air whoosh out when you assembled that rifle. That one is going in my encyclopedia of dumbass decisions.

I think it's a myth.

Basically what I’m understanding is that to optimize an AR build a guy needs ginormous bins of parts, a well lit inspection bench with all the Starrett goodies and some soothing music in the background. If you can spec the first one hundred pieces after setup sign off even mo better.

No no no no no. You need a good proper non-AR15.com manual like a 23&P that I linked, good-ish tools, and quality parts. Quality parts doesn't mean super expensive, but good quality well made parts from a good machinist/maker - they just tend to be more expensive. If you decide to go cheap, then you probably won't have a good gun. Good quality milspec parts also fit together correctly.

Poverty Pony machines their forged receivers to milspec and they work awesome. They have great small parts. I wasn't impressed with their barrels. I'm not down with their 308 stuff because it's kinda big and clunky.

WC always has good quality affordable parts but I'm not keen on most of their barrels.

The most impressive thing about Aero is that everything is cerakoted FDE, you know coz it's good.

You just have to shop around for good parts...and not gimmicky BS. That's another booger, the gimmicks. If you build guns out of gimmicky expensive crap, you end up selling it on here with a mile long list of gimmicks that nobody wants.

And don't out-think yourself.