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The Range
Gear Talk
Which scope would you choose?
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<blockquote data-quote="MoBoost" data-source="post: 1913581" data-attributes="member: 3455"><p>Get the one you really want (G2) - don't worry about the price: either scope has great resale value.</p><p></p><p>Personally, I am not a big fan of these new "uber" reticles (G2 or H37): you got exposed knobs for a reason - you should be able to count clicks as fast as them hashes. Of course they always show demos of multiple targets at known distances and memorized hold-overs - but seriously how realistic is that, and how hard is it to do with simple mil-dot?</p><p></p><p>For precision work - hold over is used for last second (minimal) windage adjustments once you got your reticle "there"; if you just trying to "ring steel" - do you really need a $1000+ scope if $200 10x40 Elite will do just as good?</p><p></p><p>Of course there are cheaper scopes that don't track worth a damn and you don't touch the knobs - but obviously this is not the case here.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MoBoost, post: 1913581, member: 3455"] Get the one you really want (G2) - don't worry about the price: either scope has great resale value. Personally, I am not a big fan of these new "uber" reticles (G2 or H37): you got exposed knobs for a reason - you should be able to count clicks as fast as them hashes. Of course they always show demos of multiple targets at known distances and memorized hold-overs - but seriously how realistic is that, and how hard is it to do with simple mil-dot? For precision work - hold over is used for last second (minimal) windage adjustments once you got your reticle "there"; if you just trying to "ring steel" - do you really need a $1000+ scope if $200 10x40 Elite will do just as good? Of course there are cheaper scopes that don't track worth a damn and you don't touch the knobs - but obviously this is not the case here. [/QUOTE]
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