Wood planer service needed

[Shoot Summ]

It’s 12/4, which is 3” thick. A planer could work with a 3/4” thick piece of MDF or plywood underneath, along with wood shims to keep the piece level as the whole assembly is fed through the planer. I’ve done this before as well as using router sleds on pieces too wide to fit through my 20” planer.

AKA a planer sled, absolutely a good option.

 

[Perplexed]

AKA a planer sled, absolutely a good option.

That I also use strips of sticky-backed sandpaper applied to the planer sled to keep the piece from shifting as it passes through the planer.

 

[red dirt shootist]

It’s 12/4, which is 3” thick. A planer could work with a 3/4” thick piece of MDF or plywood underneath, along with wood shims to keep the piece level as the whole assembly is fed through the planer. I’ve done this before as well as using router sleds on pieces too wide to fit through my 20” planer.

Sorry, I misread that. You're talking about a sled for your planer, would work fine. But still, 3" oak, not a problem. If I was wired up I would run it through my wide belt or drum sander, I work for coffee.

 

[Shoot Summ]

That I also use strips of sticky-backed sandpaper applied to the planer sled to keep the piece from shifting as it passes through the planer.

Shims, sandpaper, hot glue, double sided tape, whatever it takes to keep it on the sled!!

I've found the Shelix style cutter head to be much more forgiving as well, lots of small cuts instead of 3 or 4 large blades trying to shoot the piece back at you.

 

[bushmaster06]

I don’t know much about woodworking, but can you lay it flat and put weight on it? Something like bags of concrete?

 

[soonerman]

That would have helped while the wood was drying but it was not done.

 

[Perplexed]

I've found the Shelix style cutter head to be much more forgiving as well, lots of small cuts instead of 3 or 4 large blades trying to shoot the piece back at you.

Indeed. I spent the extra cash on the helical head, and I’m glad I did. It produces a much smoother surface too, akin to finishing with 180 or 220 grit sandpaper. No scalloping, either.

 

[Ahall]

I have a 12-5/8 W x 12/4 thick White Oak rough-sawn mantle that I need to have planed flat. It is dry now but had a little cupping. Probably end ip removing a good 3/4” in the end.

Roughly 62” in length.

Anyone in the Edmond-OKC-Moore-Norman area willing to plane it?

Let me know and what you need in exchange. Thanks in advance!

You take cupping out with a big jointer, and then bring the other side parallel with a planer.

A jointer has no feed rolls, so it will flatten a side, removing the cup or bow, but it cant make two sides parallel.

12/4 = 3 inch thick.

A planers feed rolls will squish the board down and take out a small amount of the bow, but it will spring back when the pressure comes off, and it will not flatten without some underside support. With a board that thick, the deflection from light cuts will be small and if you flip the board several times through the process, most will come out.

 

[soonerman]

Thanks for all the input everyone!

I never really have been involved in the finished millworks side, so my knowledge is limited. I appreciate you all giving advice!

Most of my time in lumber was rough cutting logs on my portable band saw. I will definitely be getting another some day.