Annealing brass

[Ahall]

The cordless drill, socket, and propane torch are fine for my needs

The only issue I have had is related to cooling
I used to drop from my drill into a bucket of water.
I had a few shells corrode from the inside after several years on the shelf.
Best guess was I did not dry them properly and the powder reacted with moisture in the case.

Just something to think about

 

[kwaynem]

When I do them with a drill I drop them into a pan NO WATER

 

[Hangfire]

I competed hot and heavy in IHMSA handgun silhouette matches for over twenty years and for the first year or two I competed solely with a 10" Contender chambered in 7mmTCU and noticed my .223 cases would neck split after two or three firings and was told that I needed to start annealing the necks.

Didn't want to spend the $$ for a factory made annealing machine and was told by a couple of old timers in the sport that I didn't need one and that all I had to do was hold the cases between my bare thumb and forefinger and spin them while holding a propane torch in the other hand and drop them in a can (no water).

I'd read that you could over anneal cases and I ask one fella how will I know if I'm annealing them too much and he said, "trust me boy you'll drop them hot cases long before you over anneal them".

Started annealing and there is no telling how many reloads I got out of my brass afterwards.

 

[kwaynem]

Here is a age old argument anneal before or after resizing?

 

[swampratt]

Here is a age old argument anneal before or after resizing?

Before sizing for me.

 

[swampratt]

Do this.
Size a case and then insert your calipers and measure the case neck ID.
Gently turn the case while measuring and feel the roughness of the case neck surface.
Brush the case neck with a spinning nylon bore brush.

Measure and feel again and look for any run-out.

Now anneal that sized case and measure the ID again and feel for any roughness and see if you get any run-out.

If it is still smooth and no run-out and is the proper size then you may want to do some target testing on paper and see which way is more accurate for you.

 

[kwaynem]

Point the flame at the base of the shoulder and the neck? What part of the flame? The very tip? I have been told I over anneal them. I have a friend that just done some for me on a machine they look great.

 

[turkeyrun]

Before sizing

Tip of flame

No water dunk

 

[bas402]

Been annealing all my bottle neck rifle cases for about 16yrs. In the beginning I wasn’t shooting a lot (maybe 10-30 cases). Started with the drill/torch method and while it seem to work I had inconsistent results as my shooting increased (inconsistent seating pressures) which affected my tuned loads. Went to a Bench Source (flame) annealer and it proved to be consistent until I started shooting ELR and FClass, I sold it and bought an AMP annealer. I shoot thousands of rds/yr (6 calibers). I know it’s expensive but it is the one item besides my scales that I have proved the most beneficial items of my reloading process that I’ve the greatest return on my investment. Most of my brass I get anywhere between 12-20 reloads before discarding and then it’s only because of PP’s loosen. Clean, Anneal, FL size, Clean off lube and trim/deburr.