Browning A5 not cycling

[WNM]

I've got my Grandpa's old A5 (1950s). I cleaned it up and grabbed some light target loads. It doesn't cycle the shells at all. The first shot goes bang and then it the bolt doesn't move at all.

I've experienced some cycle problems with light loads before in other shotguns, it usually tries to cycle, but this one doesn't even attempt to cycle the next load.

Any ideas/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[bigcountryok]

Do you have the rings on properly for the lighter loads?

There are rings over the magazine tube that you have to place in a specific configuration infront of or behind the spring for light or heavy loads. Might want to check the rings if if you're sure the shotgun has been properly cleaned and oiled.

 

[WNM]

Do you have the rings on properly for the lighter loads?

There are rings over the magazine tube that you have to place in a specific configuration infront of or behind the spring for light or heavy loads. Might want to check the rings if if you're sure the shotgun has been properly cleaned and oiled.

I'll check that out. Thanks.

 

[Weatherby]

I have heard from an old timer that some of the A5s were made for 2 5/8" shells. He told me that a 2 3/4" shell would do the same thing you have described. I don't know how much truth there is in this, but most of the old timers I know have forgotten more than I know.

 

[ttown]

There are 2 models:

Light is a 2 3/4 shotgun shells only
Magnum - is a 3 inch shotgun shell only.

If this is a Magnum gun a 2 3/4 shell wouldn't cycle


Here's a parts kit for these guns which were discontinued around 1999.

http://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/ctgy/browning-auto-5-part-kits

 

[WNM]

Thanks for all the replies, gentlemen. I'll update with any progress/more questions tomorrow.

 

[Danny]

I saw that happen once on a sporting clays range. I tend to think the above responses are your issue, but, since it's a gas operated gun, check and make sure it's cleaned REALLY good. Once the gas system gets dirty, they will shut down.

 

[ttown]

I saw that happen once on a sporting clays range. I tend to think the above responses are your issue, but, since it's a gas operated gun, check and make sure it's cleaned REALLY good. Once the gas system gets dirty, they will shut down.

The A5 is a recoil operated gun. Lub the spring and tube real well when shooting light loads and make sure you have the friction ring is set for light loads (below is the owners manual).

http://media.browning.com/pdf/om/auto5_light_om_s.pdf

These guns are very simple and almost never fail, it's a great duck gun.

 

[WNM]

The A5 is a recoil operated gun. Lub the spring and tube real well when shooting light loads and make sure you have the friction ring is set for light loads (below is the owners manual).

http://media.browning.com/pdf/om/auto5_light_om_s.pdf

These guns are very simple and almost never fail, it's a great duck gun.

You can't shoot steel through these older guns though, correct? Thanks for the pdf of the manual as well.

 

[ttown]

You can't shoot steel through these older guns though, correct?

You could certainly buy a barrel that would but not on a gun that old designed for lead but no problem, here's a few very good choices and it has better knock down than steel:


BISMUTH
Another shortcoming of steel shot is the fact that it can damage the barrels of shotguns built prior to its widespread acceptance. This holds especially true for old doubles with extremely thin barrel walls. The introduction of bismuth shot solved that problem, and, even though early production runs had a few teething problems, shot now being made of that material delivers excellent downrange performance. During the past few years I have sent several pounds of bismuth flying through the air at waterfowl, mainly because I enjoy hunting with vintage guns. While bismuth's density is greater than that of steel, the density of bismuth is a bit lower than the density of lead, so I usually choose No. 5 shot when hunting ducks with my old Fox Sterlingworth. The situation may eventually change, but as I write this, bismuth and steel are the only nontoxics available to handloaders. I have shot quite a few ducks over decoys with 3/4 ounce of bismuth handloaded for a 28-gauge Winchester Model 12 and find it to be about as effective as the 2 3/4-inch 12 gauge loaded with steel shot, with much less recoil. As factory ammo goes, bismuth is available in 12, 16, 20 and 28 gauges and in .410 bore.




TUNGSTEN-MATRIX
Tungsten-Matrix shot as loaded by Kent is slightly heavier than bismuth and close to the same density as lead. Almost as soft as lead, it too can be used in vintage guns. Pure tungsten has a gravimetric density of 16 gms/cc, so it is considerably heavier than lead, but that material alone is far too expensive to use in making shot. Tungsten starts out extremely hard, but when it is blended with just the right amount of plastic (or polymer, as it is commonly called), it becomes about as soft as lead and its density is lowered to close to that of lead. This also reduces its cost considerably. I have hunted a lot with Tungsten-Matrix in 12-, 16- and 20-gauge guns. I prefer No. 3 shot for ducks and wild-flushing pheasants, No. 6 for smaller game birds such as quail and Hungarian partridge, and No. 1 for geese. This marvelous shot is available from Kent in 2 3/4-inch, 3-inch and 3 1/2-inch 12-gauge loadings, as well as 2 3/4-inch and 3-inch loadings of the 20 gauge.