I am in stillwater and would be willing to give it a shot. I have a Millet Diversion 180 TIG. It can be done. I will be out of town tomorrow, but I will be in the shop on Wednesday if you want to come by.
Maybe a bit OT, but does anyone make a Chicago type screw set to use in place of the roll pin?
It is not a welding job for a novice or "let me try see what happens".
a) 7075 is considered "non-weldable" alloy
b) any spot with hard anodizing arcs like crazy
c) anodizing also retains heat - if the area is not thoroughly cleaned it will never form a puddle.
I've heard "stories" of successful repairs - but I've never seen it, and I have feeling it involved quite a bit of mill work afterwards.
Unless you know someone who does this repair on regular basis - I would just get a Stark grip.
a) 7075 is considered "non-weldable" alloy
b) any spot with hard anodizing arcs like crazy
c) anodizing also retains heat - if the area is not thoroughly cleaned it will never form a puddle.
I've heard "stories" of successful repairs - but I've never seen it, and I have feeling it involved quite a bit of mill work afterwards.
Unless you know someone who does this repair on regular basis - I would just get a Stark grip.
Drill it and thread it from the botom with a small diameter screw and add the JB weld before you tighten the screw. Use a screw with a tapered head and countersink the hole so that the screw is flush when you are done. You might even coat the screw with the JB before you screw it in. You might get it welded but it would be tricky. My way you would have the strength of the screw holding it in place. Get the pin out first.
Poppycock!
I mean sure....it might be a smidge tricky, but it certainly ain't no ass kicker.
That's what she said.........
M60Joe could probably fix it. He's the guy that fixes $10,000 registered m16s, brings the holes back into spec, and reanodizes them to look better than new.
Unfortunately, the cost is probably more than a new receiver, even at gouge prices of the great panic of 2012.
I think I would try mr. jB, you don't have much to lose at this point. Not much stress on that part (except when you're banging on the pin
)
Unfortunately, the cost is probably more than a new receiver, even at gouge prices of the great panic of 2012.
I think I would try mr. jB, you don't have much to lose at this point. Not much stress on that part (except when you're banging on the pin
)
bailing wire and duct tape! fixes everything! there is also a 'aluminum compound' mixes like jb weld. a possibility.
I would drill a hole 1/32" larger than a pin i had on hand, and i would use panel bonder instead of jb weld to fix it. Drill hole, put panel bonder on the pin and put it in the hole, add more panel bonder and clamp the parts together over night. The next day sand off any excess and it will be GTG.
Not that familiar with AR's and not sure how much meat you actually have to work with.
If it were mine I would go with the screw and JB weld idea. If you have room for a 4-40 socket head screw you can counter sink the hole on the bottom piece to hide the head. If not use a 2-56 socket head screw. I would drill a clearance hole in the bottom piece behind the pin hole then the relief for the screw head. Clamp and JB weld it to the main frame then drill and tap the main frame through the clearance hole. Insert the screw coated with JB weld and fill in the screw head void. Do not use JB Quick, use the real stuff and make sure the surfaces are clean and oil free.
If it were mine I would go with the screw and JB weld idea. If you have room for a 4-40 socket head screw you can counter sink the hole on the bottom piece to hide the head. If not use a 2-56 socket head screw. I would drill a clearance hole in the bottom piece behind the pin hole then the relief for the screw head. Clamp and JB weld it to the main frame then drill and tap the main frame through the clearance hole. Insert the screw coated with JB weld and fill in the screw head void. Do not use JB Quick, use the real stuff and make sure the surfaces are clean and oil free.
Absolutely correct on the weldable alloy issue. Usually requires preheat and on that small area not a good thing. I have glued some non weldable alloys together with a spoolgun, but I think the JBweld is probably the best solution. You never want to see it puddle and fall out in the floor... I've got both a Miller Synchrowave and a Lincoln Precision TIG, and the Lincoln with the variable waveshape is by far the better tool for that type welding, but I wouldn't do it.. Blitzfike
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