I'm corn fused, I thought you just melted whatever you could find in the garage and pour it in the mold.... The Lyman Manual is very useful for determining how to obtain a specific alloy... and for fluxing them to clean, I bought a block of Bees wax from Hobby Lobby for my flux I have found it to work great.
only one visit from the tinsel fairy yesterday... Fortunately it wasn't that bad, but lesson learned... turned out my first hundred or so rounds... Question... these are 125gr RN... I weighed them and they came to 116ish... so two questions... I'm assuming they're lighter because my allow has more antimony and tin in it than lee's test alloy... does this sound right? Second... I'm gonna push these with about 3.7 gr. of bullseye (seems like everyone else is pushing with 3.5 and 4 so I figure 3.7 should cycle the action and deliver a soft shooting load)... Does this sound logical to everyone? This is a fun hobby... hehe
Well 9 gr's is a little more than I usually see, not sure what would cause that.
I't pretty common for there to be several gr's difference.
What caliber are you casting?
I've got a Speer #10 reloading manual sitting here by me and it list a load for 38 spl 125 gr sp/hp bullets using bullseye of +p 5.1gr @ 1005 fps, 4.4 gr @ 857 fps
As for what will cycle your action I can't say.
You might need to try a few different loads to get to that point.
I't pretty common for there to be several gr's difference.
What caliber are you casting?
I've got a Speer #10 reloading manual sitting here by me and it list a load for 38 spl 125 gr sp/hp bullets using bullseye of +p 5.1gr @ 1005 fps, 4.4 gr @ 857 fps
As for what will cycle your action I can't say.
You might need to try a few different loads to get to that point.
Casting 9mm... I thought it was a bit off too.
Well the 3.7 should work, what reloading manual do you use?
The Speer I'm looking at is a few years old, all my others are out in the man cave.
When developing a new load you should start low and work up.
Half the fun is discovering what loads your gun likes.
I usually do about 50 rounds. 5 different sets of 10 with different charges starting low and going up. I keep an eye on the gun and casings as I move up the charge weights, as well as how it performs downrange.
I usually chrony my loads also to see if listed velocities are close to what I'm experiencing.
The Speer I'm looking at is a few years old, all my others are out in the man cave.
When developing a new load you should start low and work up.
Half the fun is discovering what loads your gun likes.
I usually do about 50 rounds. 5 different sets of 10 with different charges starting low and going up. I keep an eye on the gun and casings as I move up the charge weights, as well as how it performs downrange.
I usually chrony my loads also to see if listed velocities are close to what I'm experiencing.
I've got a speer 14... but it has no load data for cast boolits..
That's strange mine had the 125 gr round nose in it. Of course it's a bit older. I suspect they'll start listing the cast again after the recent shortages we've had. Kind of runs in spurts. If I can remember I'll check and see if any of my other manuals list any data.
i loaded up 15 at 3.6 gr..
Different manufacturers "calibrate" (can't think of a better term) their molds with different alloys. Lee uses a 20-1 alloy while Lyman uses #2. Bullet weights will come out different than advertised just based on alloy. The tooling that cuts the molds changes as more molds made, the difference can be 0.001 or more between molds and this can also change the bullet weight from advertised.
As long as all the bullets are similar weight you'll be okay.
As long as all the bullets are similar weight you'll be okay.
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