Once you have the machine, just use some citric acid and be done. People make it a lot more trouble than it has to be. Once you start using this in the right way, you will quit the corn/walnut dusty mess. Common sense ain't so common. I would rather have clean brass than shiny!
I have a remote shop/reloading area, and put the tumblers on a timer. Then use the RCBS manual media separator. Leave the lid shut for a minute or so, and there is no dust.
Get a little mess transferring the media back into the vibratory tumble though.
For hunting guns we do not need any fancy stuff.
I started with the LEE classic loaders for 30-30 and .308 and 30-06
Better known as the Lee wack-a-mole.
Just a level scoop of powder and seat the bullet and primers with a hammer.
Those produced great ammo i did not clean with anything but a rag..no lube..
the 30-30 produced 1.75" groups the other 2 stayed under 1".
Simple and cheap.
Handloading is a disease ,,..makes you want better all the time.
Same as engine building or hot rod building..you think 13 second ride would satisfy .
Not for long..before you know it you are daily driving a car that runs mid 11's and always going over in your
head the thing you could do to make your car really quick..
I think we are all diseased!!!!
I started with the LEE classic loaders for 30-30 and .308 and 30-06
Better known as the Lee wack-a-mole.
Just a level scoop of powder and seat the bullet and primers with a hammer.
Those produced great ammo i did not clean with anything but a rag..no lube..
the 30-30 produced 1.75" groups the other 2 stayed under 1".
Simple and cheap.
Handloading is a disease ,,..makes you want better all the time.
Same as engine building or hot rod building..you think 13 second ride would satisfy .
Not for long..before you know it you are daily driving a car that runs mid 11's and always going over in your
head the thing you could do to make your car really quick..
I think we are all diseased!!!!
If you pin tumble brass and nickel plated cases with a little too much lemshine in there and leave it too long, the nickel plated brass pick up a nice plating of the pink coating. You can tumble it off or polish it off, but it really makes it look weird. As much as I hate nickel plated brass for reloading, it does seem to make it easier on the sizing die when it gets coated like that..
For whatever this may be worth.....I experiemtned with using white vinegar in the pin tumbling process instead of the lemishine and the results were close to the same as lemishine. The smell when you open the seal on the tumbler drum is a bit more funky, but what the hell.....its cheap.
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SS pins, Dawn liquid,Lemi-Shine and 2 hours in my wet tumbler. Brass looks new and no "pink" brass. But for those who chose otherwise:
Chemical Case Cleaning Solutions
#1) Soak cases in a 5% solution of citric acid (available from your drugstore) and warm water for about 10 minutes. If your water is very hard increase the amount of citric acid (tip: distilled water works best). You can add some Dawn dishwashing liquid to the solution for extra grease cutting ability (do not use any dishwashing soap that contains ammonia). Follow with a rinse in hot, soapy water (Ivory liquid works well) and let dry.
#2) A solution of one (1) quart white vinegar and two (2) tablespoons of non-iodized salt. Soak with some agitation for 15 to 20 minutes. Rinse with hot, soapy water and let dry.
#3) A solution of one (1) quart of distilled water, one (1) cup white vinegar, one-half (1/2) cup lemon juice, one-quarter (1/4) cup laundry or dishwashing detergent (see caution above) and one-eighth (1/8) cup non-iodized salt. Soak with some agitation for 15 to 20 minutes and follow with a rinse in hot, soapy water and allow to dry. This may leave the brass with a slight pinkish cast which will disappear with a short tumble in media.
Cases that have been fired several times and show a carbon build up inside can be soaked in straight Naphtha available from your local hardware or paint store. Decap and soak for 5 to 10 minutes, drain, allow to air dry and then tumble as usual. Cases will come out clean inside and out.
Chemical Case Cleaning Solutions
#1) Soak cases in a 5% solution of citric acid (available from your drugstore) and warm water for about 10 minutes. If your water is very hard increase the amount of citric acid (tip: distilled water works best). You can add some Dawn dishwashing liquid to the solution for extra grease cutting ability (do not use any dishwashing soap that contains ammonia). Follow with a rinse in hot, soapy water (Ivory liquid works well) and let dry.
#2) A solution of one (1) quart white vinegar and two (2) tablespoons of non-iodized salt. Soak with some agitation for 15 to 20 minutes. Rinse with hot, soapy water and let dry.
#3) A solution of one (1) quart of distilled water, one (1) cup white vinegar, one-half (1/2) cup lemon juice, one-quarter (1/4) cup laundry or dishwashing detergent (see caution above) and one-eighth (1/8) cup non-iodized salt. Soak with some agitation for 15 to 20 minutes and follow with a rinse in hot, soapy water and allow to dry. This may leave the brass with a slight pinkish cast which will disappear with a short tumble in media.
Cases that have been fired several times and show a carbon build up inside can be soaked in straight Naphtha available from your local hardware or paint store. Decap and soak for 5 to 10 minutes, drain, allow to air dry and then tumble as usual. Cases will come out clean inside and out.
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