on any ammo I may think is corrosive I use the windex route! better safe than sorry IHO!
There are some common misconceptions in this thread.
Ammonia doesn't neutralize salts. Water (and other solvents, like the alcohol in Hoppe's) dissolves the salts and carries them out of the barrel. Ammonia does work on copper deposits in your barrel, which is why products specifically meant for cleaning centerfire rifle barrels (Butch's Bore Shine, Hoppe's Benchrest, etc) all smell like death.
When I shoot corrosive ammo I just run a Hoppe's-soaked Boresnake through the barrel a few times and then wipe down the bolt face and the inside of the receiver with Hoppe's and a rag. That takes care of the salts until I can do a proper cleaning with a copper solvent like Butch's.
The "Berdan = corrosive" thing has already been addressed. For the record, all surplus 7.5x55 Swiss ammo made after 1911 is non-corrosive but Berdan primed.
E: I don't know if Gun Scrubber works on corrosive salts or not; I've always thought of it as a degreaser and carbon deposit destroyer.
Ammonia doesn't neutralize salts. Water (and other solvents, like the alcohol in Hoppe's) dissolves the salts and carries them out of the barrel. Ammonia does work on copper deposits in your barrel, which is why products specifically meant for cleaning centerfire rifle barrels (Butch's Bore Shine, Hoppe's Benchrest, etc) all smell like death.
When I shoot corrosive ammo I just run a Hoppe's-soaked Boresnake through the barrel a few times and then wipe down the bolt face and the inside of the receiver with Hoppe's and a rag. That takes care of the salts until I can do a proper cleaning with a copper solvent like Butch's.
The "Berdan = corrosive" thing has already been addressed. For the record, all surplus 7.5x55 Swiss ammo made after 1911 is non-corrosive but Berdan primed.
E: I don't know if Gun Scrubber works on corrosive salts or not; I've always thought of it as a degreaser and carbon deposit destroyer.
+1 for Dustin's process.
that is correct, the water in the windex dissolves the salt, the ammonia will eat the copper or any other soft metal such as brass
I just want to add that I think ammonia does a great job on cleaning the carbon fouling, as opposed to plain water. That's why I use a little Windex down the bore at the range, prior to a real cleaning at home.
I have found that Parsons Kitchen and Bath cleaner with ammonia works great in cleaning both corrosive and non corrosive fouled barrels. Parsons is cheap, like $2-$3 for a 40 oz bottle. To clean the barrel on my CZ52 in which I shoot corrosive primer ammo, I use a bore mop saturated with Parsons. It has special surfactants in it to clean out the carbon also. Then I use Butches Bore Shine. I use only BBS on my Benchrest rifles too. Good stuff.
Donald
Donald
I've been reading that firing 5 rounds of non-corrosive before shooting corrosive and 5 rounds after does a pretty good job of getting most of the salts out. My main concern is the gas system.
I've also read that Windex doesn't even have ammonia in it anymore (or that ammonia D is not the real deal) and plain ol hot soapy water works just as well.
Anyhow, I have my first AK74 on the way and hope to find a way that works for me to clean it up! I also hear Ballistol thrown around quite a bit (diluted).
I've also read that Windex doesn't even have ammonia in it anymore (or that ammonia D is not the real deal) and plain ol hot soapy water works just as well.
Anyhow, I have my first AK74 on the way and hope to find a way that works for me to clean it up! I also hear Ballistol thrown around quite a bit (diluted).
For dealing with Com-Bloc corrosive primers I take the belt and suspenders approach. After finishing a shooting session, I immediately drizzle several drops of Ballistol down the barrel. Shortly thereafter I go to the running HOT water and detergent (Dawn works fine). Afterward I break the gun down to clean with Ballistol. Oil it up and its ready to go. Never a rust problem with this method.
If conditions are humid, I advise completing the entire process the same day you shoot.
Ballistol doesn't stink, is non-carcinogenic, not that costly and works. My can came from Brownells; you may be able to find it locally.
If conditions are humid, I advise completing the entire process the same day you shoot.
Ballistol doesn't stink, is non-carcinogenic, not that costly and works. My can came from Brownells; you may be able to find it locally.
I have a ton of WW2 era military issue cleaner for corrosive ammo that I use for nostalgia's sake.
That aside, I used Windex, as the water neutralizes the corrosiveness, and Windex acts as a copper solvent.
After that, clean as you would with your favorite cleaner and oil.
I have a few gazillions rounds of corrosive ammo, and besides using it my bolt actions, it's all I use in my Hakim semi-auto, FN-49 semi auto, and PSL semi-auto.
With the humidity in Oklahoma, it's a good idea to clean the gun as soon as you get home, just to play it safe, as rust may set in as little as a couple of days.
That aside, I used Windex, as the water neutralizes the corrosiveness, and Windex acts as a copper solvent.
After that, clean as you would with your favorite cleaner and oil.
I have a few gazillions rounds of corrosive ammo, and besides using it my bolt actions, it's all I use in my Hakim semi-auto, FN-49 semi auto, and PSL semi-auto.
With the humidity in Oklahoma, it's a good idea to clean the gun as soon as you get home, just to play it safe, as rust may set in as little as a couple of days.
Similar threads
- Locked
