Froglube advice

[aviator41]

So, I ordered the froglube "kit" from Midway. Solvent, lube and a cloth that is apparently soaked with the Ben-Gay smellin' stuff.

I'm going to give it try on a couple of revolvers, but they are currently clean and lubed with standard gun oil.

Froglubes directions say to clean all the oil off with their solvent and wipe a coat of their lube on, that it works wet or dry. My question is, which is better?

Do I need to let it dry and wipe it off? is this like car wax, or have I been duped by a snake-oil salesman?

 

[BobbyJuice]

I used simple green pro HD diluted to clean, than heat the parts and coat.

 

[BobbyJuice]

However I use the paste and use a brush to coat it.

 

[chasegibson]

My method off application per the froglube website is:
1. get off all the previous lube with solvent.
2. heat up all of your gun parts with a blowdryer
3. apply froglube paste or liquid. I like the paste better.
4. let the parts cool to room temperature.
5. wipe off all parts with a microfiber cloth/towel.
6. reassemble.

 

[Shadowrider]

Aviator go hunt up my corrosion test thread for a reference. But I'm fairly certain that froglube is an organic based esther wax. That would explain why the wiped patches on my panel did so well.

I use froglube (paste mostly) on the outside of my guns for protection but I don't use it for lube anymore. It just plain sucks in the cold and it will get really "sticky" with age without being cold. It tried to glue by Benelli's guts together after about 5 months, but it didn't malf on me and it wiped out without fuss. But then again it was summertime too. It will freeze solid as a rock, trust me on this. My homebrew synthetic oil that I froze right along side of it poured right out of the pyrex dish at -36 degrees in my chest freezer no problem. Like I said though I still use it on the outside, in the chamber and barrel. I haven't found anything better for corrosion, at least short of cosmoline that is.

 

[aviator41]

Shadowrider, your test is exactly what convinced me to give it a try. Cold weather performance is one thing that concerns me. I'd hate to have a pistol seize up un the middle of an event. So you're saying that even though you wipe off the excess, there is enough left to get gummy?

 

[Mr.Glock]

Won't cost you a dime to read. But I would encourage you to. I switched to it awhile back and am elated at the results.

http://www.laruetactical.com/lubemi...rease-lubricant-protectant-tw25b-12cc-syringe

 

[OKCShooter]

Aviator go hunt up my corrosion test thread for a reference. But I'm fairly certain that froglube is an organic based esther wax. That would explain why the wiped patches on my panel did so well.

I use froglube (paste mostly) on the outside of my guns for protection but I don't use it for lube anymore. It just plain sucks in the cold and it will get really "sticky" with age without being cold. It tried to glue by Benelli's guts together after about 5 months, but it didn't malf on me and it wiped out without fuss. But then again it was summertime too. It will freeze solid as a rock, trust me on this. My homebrew synthetic oil that I froze right along side of it poured right out of the pyrex dish at -36 degrees in my chest freezer no problem. Like I said though I still use it on the outside, in the chamber and barrel. I haven't found anything better for corrosion, at least short of cosmoline that is.

I'm seeing this as well. I love Frog Lube for exterior but it does get 'tacky' over time.

I'm going to keep using Mobil synthetic for lube and Frog Lube for protection.




Edit: I still like Froglube on my Coated BCG (Nickle Boron)

 

[Shadowrider]

Shadowrider, your test is exactly what convinced me to give it a try. Cold weather performance is one thing that concerns me. I'd hate to have a pistol seize up un the middle of an event. So you're saying that even though you wipe off the excess, there is enough left to get gummy?

No it works as advertised if wiped off. But......

I don't think there is enough there to provide meaningful lubrication, at least not to suit me. Another reason is that I was using it on my M&P 9 Pro. I seasoned it like they recommend twice and then applied a pretty heavy coat to the steel frame blocks the the slide runs on and in the slide rails themselves. I wanted it well lubed and it was. When I switched over this gun had probably 8000 rounds on it and just light wear on those blocks which didn't really amount to more than the black oxide coating wearing off of them. After shooting 1500 trouble free rounds at a TDSA class with it froglubed I broke it down to clean it. There were actual scratches on the frame blocks that weren't there after the previous 8000 rounds. So I had 8000 rounds with nothing but the oxide wearing off the surface (normal), then I had 1500 rounds that showed some real wear of the steel itself. Even though it's really negligible and didn't hurt this gun in the slightest, the difference in the wear rate told me it was a no-go. I know people swear by it in AR15s, and that really is what it was designed for and running in the sandbox it's bound to be the best thing going. If you shoot a couple hundred rounds and do a clean and reapply, you will probably be fine. Me? I tend to go over 1000 between cleanings so I'll stick with a fully synthetic oil for lubrication.

Edit: I also season my reloading dies with FL and use it on taper crimp dies. It works great for that too.

 

[Dalejbrass]

I drank the koolaid a while back. Bought a bunch of it and proceeded to run it on several AR platforms, a couple of 1911's and a Glock. After application, I had several malfunctions in my pistols (particularly the 1911's) and quickly began to dispise it. I had a STI 2011 that wouldn't even run unless you heated the gun first. It is very goey when it's cold. Never had any malfunctions w the ar's, but if you run them at all, it turns very "liquidy" and becomes a mess and gets very dirty quick.

I've proceeded to toss all the frog and have gone back to the standards. I did like the smell.