how did I never see that thread - did you replace the line and still have issues? got a multimeter to check the switch when doing it?
could be a bad connection, break in the wire, the switch itself and can't think of anything else.
how did I never see that thread - did you replace the line and still have issues? got a multimeter to check the switch when doing it?
could be a bad connection, break in the wire, the switch itself and can't think of anything else.
It Sounds like you have an over pressure problem. If the ac system has had work on it and been open with oklahomas high humidity it can get moisture in the system and work fine until it expands the moisture through the expansion valve and high side pressure can shoot up and kick the compressor off until pressure drops and it will repeat. Adding freon will make it worse. Best thing is to put the system in a vacuum for at least 30 or down to 250microns to get the moisture out. Closest to 100% freon.
Also I've seen idle air control valves go bad and it can't raise the idle when the compressor kicks on so instead of stalling the engine it will shut the compressor off. It would prolly have a check engine light on for that.
Of coarse it could be condensor/ radiator fan not cooling. Or clogged condensor. But most likely moisture in the system.
I pulled a good vacuum on the system and charged it per the spec. The pressures are right on with the factory service manual and I think the low pressure switch is working properly. The air output was around 40*F. I'm thinking now it may be a faulty evaporator temp sensor, but am not sure. The condenser was replaced about 2 years ago and is not really clogged (these cars are notorious for rocks through the condenser...) Fans are working properly. I can assure you there isn't any moisture in the system.
here is a video of the gauges idling in my driveway. It is about 80*F outside and 30% humidity.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHgPhrlOJhw
Here it is at 2k RPM same time same place. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjGmIYw4nU8&feature=mfu_in_order&playnext=1&videos=t1B1KBvy9PU
Hard to see the numbers, but they don't really look out of line to me.
here is a video of the gauges idling in my driveway. It is about 80*F outside and 30% humidity.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHgPhrlOJhw
Here it is at 2k RPM same time same place. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjGmIYw4nU8&feature=mfu_in_order&playnext=1&videos=t1B1KBvy9PU
Hard to see the numbers, but they don't really look out of line to me.
A bad pressure sensor is unlikely. I personally have never seen one bad on a Honda.
I recently had to replace a hard line that was jacked, maybe by me, maybe by the guy that changed the condenser. The charge on the system should be very good.
Those pressures in the video looked perfect. I've seen on 06 up civics evap temp sensors go bad causing the same type of problem. You could try unplugging the sensor and see if it still acts up.
Is it very involved accessing the sensor? I can flop the glove box down like a champ now, but I don't have the time right now to tackle removing the dash. Getting the Evaporator out is a process according to the service manual. Blower, ECU, etc need to come out.
I think you can get to the connector easy to test it but replacing it will be tough. I think you only have to remove the dash to remove the heater core. The evaporator should come out with the blower assembly. Still not easy though lol.
Everyone don't forget that Honda timing belts need to be changed every 100k miles.
Thanks for the pms. Keep them coming
