I'm Done With One-Piece Scope Mounts on ARs

[henschman]

After making do with them for several years, I am finally done with one-piece scope mounts on ARs. The main issue I have with them is that just about every one of them sit significantly higher than the plane of the iron sights, meaning I cannot get a proper cheek weld. Keep in mind that the flat-top iron sights are actually a bit taller than the A1 and A2 sights themselves. Raise the sight plane even further and it gets really annoying. I recently embarked on a mission to find the best solution for mounting a scope as close to the sight height of an A1/A2 rifle, which is perfect for me. This equates to a sight height of right around 1.2" over the rail surface.

The best solution I have found is this YHM riser: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/26...unt-ar-15-flat-top-matte?cm_vc=ProductFinding plus a pair of Vortex Tactical 30mm Low rings. This puts the optic centerline right at 1.25", and gives me perfect cheek weld. The 6" version of the mount gave me plenty of room for proper eye relief on an AR-15 with a NTCH position. I have the 5" version on my .308, and it works perfectly there. The riser and rings are both very light weight. This combo weighs less than either my Burris PEPR or my Primary Arms Extended mount.

This setup did bring up some issues though. For one, it is low enough that the front sight post on a fixed FSB rifle obscures the center of the scope's FOV, even on 4x. This was never an issue with higher-mounted optics. It has caused me to switch out my fixed FSB for a YHM folding FSB on my A4.

For another, this mounting method puts the scope too low to clear either a KAC 2-600 or Magpul MBUS rear sight when flip-up scope caps are installed. This has caused me to do a little prioritizing and remove the rear sight on my scoped ARs. I can carry a zeroed rear sight in my gear; and if my glass goes TU in the field, I can pretty quickly remove it and screw on the rear sight to get back in business. I figure maximum functionality with the primary optic is a lot more important than long-shot scenarios in which the optic breaks and I have enough time to loosen and remove scope rings and flip up a rear sight, but not enough time to remove scope rings and install a rear sight using a screwdriver. I suppose offset sights are a possibility as well. Maybe someday.

Here is what my riser+rings setup looks like, installed on my recce.

 

[dennishoddy]

I use the 3/4" risers. I grew up on the M-16 with sights on the carry handle, so I'm used to a high sight. Like you, low mount scopes will be looking right at the front sight.

The low mounts on AR's will cause my muffs to come off my ears as well trying to get the correct cheek weld. Howard Leight lo pro is what I use.

 

[kahrk-9]

I love my Larue 1.5 SPR. It returns to zero on and off the M&P15-22 and back to the AR.

 

[MisterGrubbs]

Buy a PRS or something else with an adjustable cheek piece. Problem solved.

 

[Glocktogo]

Compass Lake makes one that will do what that YHM riser will, but spans more of the receiver and is probably a bit sturdier. They make them out of aluminum now, but I have one of the earlier steel versions and it's a tank!

http://www.compasslake.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=25&products_id=173

 

[Super Dave]

I like one piece.

 

[Jwryan84]

Compass Lake makes one that will do what that YHM riser will, but spans more of the receiver and is probably a bit sturdier. They make them out of aluminum now, but I have one of the earlier steel versions and it's a tank!

http://www.compasslake.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=25&products_id=173

Yea, def looks like it could be spread out to be sturdier but as far forward as the scope sits it had to be that configuration to not sit on the rail.

I found risers at Primary Arms on sale a few weeks ago. I have the opposite issue. Had to add riser to my tavor to get a proper cheek weld.

Scope seems to be very far forward. Usually mount with eye piece right above the charging handle.

 

[henschman]

The low mounts on AR's will cause my muffs to come off my ears as well trying to get the correct cheek weld. Howard Leight lo pro is what I use.

I have the same issue on any rifle. That is why I don't use muffs. Having proper marksmanship fundamentals is more important to me than being able to use a particular type of ear pro.

Buy a PRS or something else with an adjustable cheek piece. Problem solved.

The cheek piece on those is not where my cheek goes. If the cheek piece were in the right place, it would get in the way of the charging handle.

Compass Lake makes one that will do what that YHM riser will, but spans more of the receiver and is probably a bit sturdier. They make them out of aluminum now, but I have one of the earlier steel versions and it's a tank!

http://www.compasslake.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=25&products_id=173

I actually wouldn't want the riser to span any more of the receiver, because it would prevent me from using a low enough ring -- the ocular housing of the scope would come in contact with the riser. Before the YHM I tried an IOR Valdada riser that is very similar to the one you posted... I ran into that same problem; plus it was really heavy. The YHM riser is plenty strong. Any more "beef" would just be extra weight as far as I'm concerned.

Scope seems to be very far forward. Usually mount with eye piece right above the charging handle.

It's mounted to have perfect eye relief when in a nose-to-charging handle position.

 

[MoBoost]

Armalite scope mounts are proper height for you, and can be removed without tools: http://www.armalite.com/ItemForm.as...Category=42e7b122-a6b4-4865-ba95-6586ae8e163f

On the other hand, is the teeter-totter setup you got any better than gaping the bridge with standard rings?

 

[USMC6094]

+1 on the LaRue, you can NOT got wrong with their gear