lead bullet smelting... school me please.

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BadgerLB

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I've heard another easy way to differentiate zinc from lead is to look at the markings on the ww itself... steel or zinc will be pressed into the WW, lead will be cast and protrude from the wheel weight. This made sense to me as the whole reason we don't use zinc is that it does a poor job of filling out a mould. I've used this in the last few batches ive got and haven't found it to be untrue.
 
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Zinc takes a higher temperature to melt than lead. I've had some zinc weights mixed in with my lead ones and they just floated to the top and I just scraped them off and threw them away.

If you're going to make 45's for your Springfield, I'd suggest getting a 230 grain round nose mold. If you want to try some of the 200 grain semi-wadcutters and see how they work, I have some here at the house.
 

gaseous maximus

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I have cast, over the past 30 years, several hundred lbs. of various weight bullets, with a Lee bottom pour furnace, 20 lb. I think. I have, and still do use wheel weights. I alloyed them with bar solder and pure lead. Ran out of bar solder so have been using some pure antimony, which I fortunately was able to procure. the old lyman no. 2 formula which was ,years ago considered standard, called for 5 1/2 lb wheel weights, 1 lb 50/50 bar solder, 3 1/2 lb pure lead.= 10 lb no. 2 alloy. Or 4 lb linotype, 1 lb 50/50 bar solder, 5 lb pure lead= 10 lb no 2 alloy, source lyman 45th edition. I don't use the Lee for mixing the alloy, but a small cast iron pot on a coleman stove, and cast into ingots in a cup cake pan. What has been written about the zinc is very true. Years ago I got the bright Idea to use zinc to harden my bullets. Real bad move, wound up ruining over 100 lbs of alloy. In addition to other posters precautions, I would suggest that you melt the wheel weights first and cast at least one GOOD bullet with each batch before processing it any futher. Also, since zinc has a higher melting point, it is a good idea to keep a eye out for any wws that don't seem to be melting, zinc will also float. As a safety precaution, I would like to add that wheel weights can appear dry ,but can retain moisture in the lead to steel joint, added to a pot of molten lead, things WILL get interesting FAST.
 

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Zinc takes a higher temperature to melt than lead. I've had some zinc weights mixed in with my lead ones and they just floated to the top and I just scraped them off and threw them away.

If you're going to make 45's for your Springfield, I'd suggest getting a 230 grain round nose mold. If you want to try some of the 200 grain semi-wadcutters and see how they work, I have some here at the house.

Round nose is the only thing I'll be loading for the 1911. I've tried SWC's and didn't have a lot of success with them.
 

oksmle

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robar-g19.... I see that you are in OKC. I'm getting ready to cast up a bunch of stuff & if you want to get in on the "how to do it" give me a call & I'll let you get first hand experience. Also you can see the firearms that I shoot the stuff in that others say you aren't supposed to.
Dick Simmons
793-7208
 

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robar-g19.... I see that you are in OKC. I'm getting ready to cast up a bunch of stuff & if you want to get in on the "how to do it" give me a call & I'll let you get first hand experience. Also you can see the firearms that I shoot the stuff in that others say you aren't supposed to.
Dick Simmons
793-7208

Good deal. I have a weird work schedule so it might be difficult to arrange a get together but I'll call you to see what we can work out.
 

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