On that scope you are using I assume it is probably cranked up to highest power setting.
Now Parallax can get wonky at high power 9+ and long distances.
First thing I do when shooting is move my head back and forth and up and down while looking into the scope without moving the rifle at all.
Make absolutely sure the cross hairs stay still on my target and I adjust Parallax to make it happen.
I never assume 300 yard mark on the scope is going to make the cross hairs stay still when I move my head.
I have a Nikon 4-12 power scope and it is not adjustable and you better be darn sure you have the same hold and same cheek weld and eye position or the groups suffer.
My centerpoint 4-16 shoots tighter groups at long distances but only because I can adjust Parallax.
And the scope is a bit high on a particular rifle which makes it harder than a low mounted scope.
Fun stuff.
Next trip I take to Gene sears I will ask about Varget.
We got to keep you shooting.
Now Parallax can get wonky at high power 9+ and long distances.
First thing I do when shooting is move my head back and forth and up and down while looking into the scope without moving the rifle at all.
Make absolutely sure the cross hairs stay still on my target and I adjust Parallax to make it happen.
I never assume 300 yard mark on the scope is going to make the cross hairs stay still when I move my head.
I have a Nikon 4-12 power scope and it is not adjustable and you better be darn sure you have the same hold and same cheek weld and eye position or the groups suffer.
My centerpoint 4-16 shoots tighter groups at long distances but only because I can adjust Parallax.
And the scope is a bit high on a particular rifle which makes it harder than a low mounted scope.
Fun stuff.
Next trip I take to Gene sears I will ask about Varget.
We got to keep you shooting.