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When the firearm picks up the ammo from the magazine isn't the extractor engaged to the groove in the case before it goes into full battery?

There is a lot of pressure on the bullet as it enters the top hat area of the barrel and this is enough to actually push a bullet deeper into a case in many semi auto's.
This should secure the extractor arm I would think.

Holding the 40 at the correct spot for firing.
Now lets say your 10 mm not cycle or load 40 well then could you seat the bullet longer in the 40?

I know I can seat my 9 or 40 or 45 bullet longer and it will not go into full battery because the .

Basically headspace on the the bullet.
 

Bahick71

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I don't know about small magnum, but I have not seen a difference with same powder
And small or large primers. I load some with 231, liked alot, then loaded with tight group
Oh man, love it, very clean pop, and super clean.
I have run .40 through my 1911 with no problems
 
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Haven’t loaded any for my xten yet, but was talking with a friend of mine and he said if he didn’t put a good crimp he had issues with recoil displacing the the seat depth within the magazine. Has anyone experienced something similar? I typically have not crimped my lower pressured pistol loads (9mm, light 38spc).
 

JoeGloker

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Pretty much. I want to get the break in period over without beating the gun to death using magnum loads, and it's much more pleasant to shoot.
I competed for 6 or 7 years with a .40 in USPSA, so I'm pretty familiar with the loads that shoot soft.
I'll graduate to more powerful loads soon, so I'm watching this thread to see what everyone else is using.
I've even used .40 rounds in the 10mm. They shoot fine and I have thousands of reloads available. Lots of folks do that as well.
Are you using a lighter spring for cycling?
 
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Are you using a lighter spring for cycling?
Using the factory M&P spring. I actually thought I'd have to move to a lighter spring but it wasn't necessary, which puts me in the mind that maybe if going to full power loads I might want to get a stronger recoil spring? I've shot some Underwoods from it, performing perfectly, but magnum loads can sure beat up a gun if shot repeatedly.
 

PanhandleGlocker

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Using the factory M&P spring. I actually thought I'd have to move to a lighter spring but it wasn't necessary, which puts me in the mind that maybe if going to full power loads I might want to get a stronger recoil spring? I've shot some Underwoods from it, performing perfectly, but magnum loads can sure beat up a gun if shot repeatedly.

I’ve read that’s not really the case with 10mm now as it was when the cartridge was first introduced. Metallurgy has gotten better and the guns built for 10mm now are much stronger than the first ones that were built.
 

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