Reloading frustration.

[Shadowrider]

I have used the Hornady bullets before. While perfectly functional, they vary drastically from bullet to bullet. You are seeing this in your reloading. I have seen them vary by up to .030" bullet to bullet. Thats actually a little more than you are reporting, and makes it very challenging to seat to the canellure consistently. Measuring the OAL length dimension from the case head to the tip of the bullet is really a poor way to measure though. I only measure this way to confirm magazine length fitment. Even Sierra Matchking's will vary by a few thousands or more in overall bullet length. The consistent dimension you really need to be measuring off of is the ogive. For the most accuracy, measuring from the case head to the ogive will give you repeatable results in your setup. It may not matter to you just yet while you are new, but when you begin wanting to squeeze the most accuracy out of your loaded rounds, this is the preferred method.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/23...ad-bullet-comparator-basic-set-with-6-inserts

This^^^

But I've never had .030" variance unless something was up.

Actually you will find that measuring tip of bullet and getting the variance you mention will drop drastically if you check those same exact loaded rounds with the comparator that you are talking about. This is caused by the calipers not measuring the same thing your die engages when seating a bullet. The rifle die isn't pushing on the very tip but that's what you are measuring. The comparator pretty much does engage the ogive just like your dies.

 

[Dozermonkey]

Okay .... This makes me feel a little better. After seating I'm also noticing a ring mark on the bullet. Is this normal ?

 

[Shadowrider]

Okay .... This makes me feel a little better. After seating I'm also noticing a ring mark on the bullet. Is this normal ?

Pretty much. Shouldn't be deforming it to any extent though.

 

[ASP785]

This^^^

But I've never had .030" variance unless something was up.

Actually you will find that measuring tip of bullet and getting the variance you mention will drop drastically if you check those same exact loaded rounds with the comparator that you are talking about. This is caused by the calipers not measuring the same thing your die engages when seating a bullet. The rifle die isn't pushing on the very tip but that's what you are measuring. The comparator pretty much does engage the ogive just like your dies.

I might not have explained it very well, but the actual bullets themselves had a .030" variance in length. I don't recall what the loaded cartridges varied, but to your point, it would have been different, and probably less than .030" The best 'cheap' bullets I have used in .224 are the 55grn M193, when they are available. They are very consistent.

 

[uncle money bags]

Here is my 2 cents worth. This is from experience.

If you are getting a ring around the bullet when seating, then the neck tension of the case is too tight. Or, it maybe that the inside of the neck is scarred. When this happens part of the seating depth is absorbed by the crushing of the bullet jacket. I first noticed this when seating much longer 77 grain bullets, especially the thinner jacket Nosler Custom Comp bullets. Any time the seating operation was tighter or there was more resistance then the seating die would leave that ring and the OAL of the round would be off. This caused my OAL to vary between 2.250 to 2.265. As it happens, PMAGS will still take the longer bullet and I have observed no issues with the longer rounds.
If you are having this problem, especially with the considerably shorter and easier to seat 55's I would look at your sizing die first and make sure it is clean, in spec, and lubed correctly. It may also be that your trimming tool is scarring the inside of your neck and causing the issue. I had that problem with the RCBS Trim Pro. To rectify I removed the guide and chucked it into a drill. With a piece of leather and a mild compound I polished it taking care to not remove any more material than was necessary to get a bright shine. Another issue with mixed brass and the trim pro is that the mandrel doesnt always line up well with the base holder. To fix this place the brass in the holder and leave it slightly loose until you insert the mandrel. with the mandrel in the neck let the arm of the base holder take bite and then start trimming.

Anyway, hope this helps.

 

[JCW355]

Lee case trimmers get them right on the money every time.
Pretty quick also.
Just a tiny chamfer on the mouth's..just enough that you can barely see it and it allows the bullet to seat easy without
removing any copper from it..

A nice thing to do after case mouth chamfer is to take a 7/16 nut driver and pack it with 0000 steel wool and spin this on the case mouth to deburr and slick things up.

I use the Lee case trimmers as well.

 

[Dozermonkey]

Well , I guess it paid off to step away for awhile. Things seem to be working out better. Cases are trimming out more consistent and I finally got my crimp and seat where I want it. Thanks to every one who offered advice ! Thank you !

 

[Profreedomokie]

Most people I know don't crimp .223/5.56. I don't and no problems. I know this isn't the cure for your problems.

 

[Blitzfike]

I don't worry too much about crimping 223 for bolt action or single shot, but I have problems with some of the 223 or .556 brass in the ar-15s if I don't crimp. No one mentioned getting the sizing die set correctly to keep the shoulder where it is supposed to be, and that can be a big problem with loading 223s from various weapons. I use a Wilson case gauge for setting my sizing die correctly, here is a link to one at midway. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/45...space-gage-223-remington?cm_vc=ProductFinding I use case gauges on all my bottle neck cartridges. If you screw the sizing die down too much against the shell holder you can end up with the shoulder pushed down creating a headspace problem and short brass life. If you don't have the die screwed down enough, the brass that was fired in a loose chamber won't have its shoulder pushed back into the correct position and will create problems with chambering. The lee case trimmer is here http://www.midwayusa.com/product/10...hellholder-223-remington?cm_vc=ProductFinding and you need the trimmer to go with it and it is here.. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/476992/lee-case-trimmer-cutter-and-lock-stud?cm_vc=sugv1476992 I have your Lyman universal trimmer, a couple of other manual trimmers, the RCBS motorized trimmer and case prep station, the Dillon Rapid Trim and keep going back to the Lee system for small batches (50 or less) if you plan to do large batches with the Lee system, get this to go with it http://www.midwayusa.com/product/136199/lee-case-trimmer-cutter-with-ball-grip?cm_vc=subv1136199 You are going to need a second cutter eventually anyway. For crimping, I use the Lee factory crimp die on almost all the ammo that I crimp, and here is a link to it http://www.midwayusa.com/product/456506/lee-factory-crimp-die-223-remington This is as good as it gets in my opinion. Good luck.. Jim

 

[criticalbass]

If one is fussy about getting consistent crimps, Lee makes a final crimp die that is a collet that squeezes from the side and puts no stress on the case. One can adjust it so tight as to put a canalure in a bullet, but that's too much. Not sure it would work on a progressive press, but great for consistent crimps.