Reloading press mount

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Yeah you got a nice machine for sure. You know what they say bout practice.
Welding is like art work. Even though you've welded for years, if you don't do it on a regular basis, it looks like crap typically.
Midway into a big job, you see the transition to great looking welds and then go back to the first welds, grind them out and move on to the great looking ones.
That being said, we went to a Boeing shop in Wichita many years ago, and watched a guy tig two sheets of his sandwich aluminum foil into a perfect bead. That's some talent.
 

Cowcatcher

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@dennishoddy , I decided to tap the holes instead of welding nuts on. If I had welded nuts on, I would've had to put notches in the square holes I intend to cut in bench. Or I woulda had to make hole bigger than I wanted.

Yes one is 3/4 and the others are 5/8. I had a oops.
 
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MacFromOK

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Real close. I think there's enough for this application. Just need enough tension to take the slack out
Your call. Not a reloader, so I have no idea how much force is applied. :D

If it gives any problems, you can always cut a hole big enough to mount a nut in the steel instead of on the outside. There's enough slack between the square tubings to allow some of the nut on the inside.

Just a thought. :drunk2:
 

NikatKimber

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Depending on what press, and what operations, the top bolt may need reinforcement. The side shouldn't have any problem.

How consistent are the inside dimensions of the pipe? I'd think it would be more rigid to add a weld bead on the top and/or bottom to reduce the play rather than using a single bolt for all the play. Then the bolt just adds a little tension so it doesn't pull out.
 

NightShade

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If it starts to be a problem for pulling out either tig a nut on the outside so that it matches up with the threads or drill through the inner tube. The second one requires that they are all made the same though.

Myself, I would have just used a smooth hitch pin to prevent it from moving around. As long as the holes are tight the movement would be minimal.



For anyone who isn't all that handy you can get a piece of 2' x 2' plywood at most of the big box home improvement stores and have them cut it. Then all you need to do is drill a couple holes and bolt it down with some carriage bolts. Mount at a corner for best results or have a clamp that is able to reach towards the back of the piece of wood. It's probably 5 bucks worth or hardware for bolts nuts and washers, the plywood will run less than 15 bucks and can make a couple of the mounts. Then some harbor freight clamps and you are ready to go. I countersunk the holes so that the head would be recessed and not chew up the surface I plan to use. Mine is setup with two single stage presses the work well on a corner of a table. This way when I run stuff and the wife wants to help I can set it at a point where we can both operate a press. This works very well with 357SIG as i will run it through a carbide .40 die first then she runs it in the 357SIG die for the neck size.
 

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The down stroke will have the most pressure. The presses don't require much pressure on the up stroke to prime. Sometimes a case coming out of resizing day may require a little more pressure on the up stroke. I plan to put these in the bench with one bolt head pointing up and one pointing right. That should be holding the inner tube down snug for down stroke. If need be, I will do as @NikatKimber suggested and weld a bead on inner tube. I'm gonna see how this works because a little extra play will be handy for installing and removing. @MacFromOK the problem I see with the bolt going into the inner tube is then I have to line things up to install. As it is now, I can just shove it in and tighten "set bolt" without looking under bench.
I appreciate yalls input and I'll keep ya posted.
Pulling in or out shouldn't be an issue. Up and down play is the only movement I'm trying to control.
 

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