Ruger American Predator 6.5 Grendel first shots - not happy ( getting better)

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Osage1978

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Maybe someone can help me out here?

Today I took my new RAP 6.5 Grendel out to sight in & see how it groups. Here's the rifle info RAP 6.5G with a 3 port side discharge muzzle brake that's not overly tightened on the muzzle , Trigger spring replaced & is at an estimated 1.5-2lbs, MEOPTA OPTIKA5 4-20x50 sitting in a DNZ game reaper. Shooting Hornady Black 123gr ELD-M . Rifle was supported by bipod up front and a sand bag in the rear & shot off a bench. Barrel cleaned before firing

Fired 5 shots getting it zeroed then 5 playing around checking it. Started in to group the first 5 after with no cool down but I was touching the barrel occasionally to test the temp & it really never felt hot, just warm. All shot's are at 100 yards

First group 2.125" which is terrible & unacceptable. ( See pic )

I gave the rifle about 10 minutes to cool down and really tried my best to shoot a better group and was able to get a 1.125 group allowing a short break between the first 2 rounds and the last 3 ( also see pic )

So what's your opinion on this? Obviously I'd like to try a different ammo but this is what I have to use at the moment. I can slide a piece of paper between the barrel and stock up to where the barrel threads in the action so I don't think I'm getting contact during shooting... I don't think? The scope & dnz are good & tight, the brake is not to tight.

Is it just me? I can shoot my son's 223 bolt gun using the same bipod and bag & get a 1/2" to 3/4" 5 shot group. I was surprised with each shot and had to reset the gun each time to get back on target, maybe I'm flinching?

I'm at a loss here guys, I really expected better from this combo & myself
 

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Osage1978

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Ok went back to the range & fired 4 groups of 5 (1) group with the brake still on (3) groups as good as I could with the last group no allowing any cool down time. Don't have a way to check torque on the action screws though I know I didn't put them back as tight as the were when I first removed the stock because they were crazy tight ( edit just checked them & they're really tight ) . Still bumfuzzled? The point of impact change on the first group after the brake was removed was really high.
 

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kingfish

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If I have a new rifle that I expect <1moa, I go through a break in procedure. New barrels will copper foul quickly until they get smoothed out. Get some copper solvent and a brass brush. Get all the copper out of the barrel then start a break in process. It may not be the ultimate solution to your problem, but it will help no matter what else might be the issue.
 

Osage1978

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If I have a new rifle that I expect <1moa, I go through a break in procedure. New barrels will copper foul quickly until they get smoothed out. Get some copper solvent and a brass brush. Get all the copper out of the barrel then start a break in process. It may not be the ultimate solution to your problem, but it will help no matter what else might be the issue.
I have it torn apart as we speak with some solvent (wipeout) soaking in the barrel. I did notice the rifling was copper streaked heavily when I got home. My old standard treatment has always been to run 30-50 passes of Jb's through a barrel weather new or used before shooting it & it's always given me fantastic results but my jar is 20 years old so maybe it's bad. I'll let the wipeout soak over night and go try again tomorrow. Also the bipod had lost it's rubber cushion between the metal and the stock so I replaced it and it's much more steady now

I also relieved the barrel channel some more just in case it was making contact when I'm on the gun. At this point I'm just experimenting with the gun since I can't get any other ammo to try at the moment.

Appreciate everyone speaking up
 
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