Standing Water in Fraidyhole

[davek]

Um, if I force warm humid air into the fiberglass shelter then there will be more condensation on the walls, not less. I need a dehumidifier system of some kind.
As for drilling a hole, funny thing - since we got almost 6 inches of rain already in the last 2 days I've found we have a pinhole leak about 18 inches from the bottom. So I already have a hole!

 

[twoguns?]

Um, if I force warm humid air into the fiberglass shelter then there will be more condensation on the walls, not less. I need a dehumidifier system of some kind.
As for drilling a hole, funny thing - since we got almost 6 inches of rain already in the last 2 days I've found we have a pinhole leak about 18 inches from the bottom. So I already have a hole!

UMMMM did you read the first post , ventilation is what you need, moving air.
There will always be some humidity , you might put some dessicant ,or light insulation on the walls.
But then dehumidifying ,might be a source of water if needed, but youll always need ventilating air

 

[dennishoddy]

just drill a hole in the floor and let it drain out.

there, fixed it.

Well, that doesn't work all the time.
I recently had a building put on the place for a barn, and researching concrete sealers, discovered that there are occasions where water will wick up through the concrete. I had to do some testing. They would sell me the product, but advised against it if the results showed water coming from the ground back into the concrete. Its not uncommon according to them.

In my building that is very tightly constructed and insulated, I left a "ventless" gas heater running overnight. Next day, I had water standing on the purlens and the concrete was damp. A by-product of burning natural gas is water vapor. If it can't get out, it condences on cool surfaces.

 

[ignerntbend]

Pound lead wool into the places where the wall joins the floor, then cap the floor with three and a half inches of new concreet.

 

[dennishoddy]

Or put a vent fan in the gable that operates from the amount of humidity in the air, easily bought at lowes. Problem solved.

To prepare for a shelter that might get flooded and there is no power to run a sump pump, there are manual pumps available like a bicycle pump that will manually remove the water from the shelter.

 

[vvvvvvv]

Or put a vent fan in the gable that operates from the amount of humidity in the air, easily bought at lowes. Problem solved.

??? Where?

 

[dennishoddy]

??? Where?

I have three of them in my house/barn.
one on each side of the house, and one in the barn.

They mount in the gable of the house, require a gravity vent louver and have a controller that operates from temperature and humidity.

They run in the winter sometimes, but its for a purpose.

Moving air won't produce mold. Even though its 100% humidity while its raining, the moving air will prevent it from forming..

Mine is set at 120 degrees for heat. When its mid summer, your attic temps may reach 160 degrees if its not vented. We have 10" of insulation in the ceiling and 6" in the walls, with 12 attic vents along the roof.

The gable fan still kicks on at the set temperature as early as 10am.

I do instrument calibrations for a living so I'm confident in these results and have checked them.

Edit:

http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/046388/046388842191.jpg


http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=rel&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

 

[vvvvvvv]

Ah, you're talking about your place and an attic. I was a little lost there trying to figure out where to put it in the cellar. And I may have had a drink or two.

 

[twoguns?]

Well, that doesn't work all the time.
I recently had a building put on the place for a barn, and researching concrete sealers, discovered that there are occasions where water will wick up through the concrete. I had to do some testing. They would sell me the product, but advised against it if the results showed water coming from the ground back into the concrete. Its not uncommon according to them.

In my building that is very tightly constructed and insulated, I left a "ventless" gas heater running overnight. Next day, I had water standing on the purlens and the concrete was damp. A by-product of burning natural gas is water vapor. If it can't get out, it condences on cool surfaces.

And be careful with those "ventless" they also produce CO2 and CO.
Gable vent is a good idea , anything that vents some air, and provides combustion air, they can deplete the Oxygen if they are very tight.

 

[dennishoddy]

Ah, you're talking about your place and an attic. I was a little lost there trying to figure out where to put it in the cellar. And I may have had a drink or two.

I went back and saw the type of construction of your cellar. My fault, as I was browsing pretty quick and thought I was in the thread about buildings sweating.