Tig welders

[Cowcatcher]

I have never used one. My experience with welders and cutting equipment was on the farm with a Sears stick welder (still have and afraid to turn it on) and a cutting torch in the 70's.
Do you have to buy a lot of replacement stuffies to keep it goin?

I wouldn't say a lot. You do have some consumables. It's all about how ya use it. Cutting 3/8 thick eats tips faster than cutting 10ga for example. I pretty much only by drag tips so I can set the torch right on what I'm cutting and drag it along. I'm sure if I used a different tip and cut with a standoff things would last longer. I probably cut 40' of 10ga with one tip.

 

[dennishoddy]

Watching with great interest. I want a plasma cutter too.

I bought two identical ESAB plasma machines at an auction for $100 each. 5/8" steel capacity, 25' lead. I love those machines. The consumables are a tad expensive, but they are worth it.

 

[dennishoddy]

Cowcatcher if you buy a cheaper one and realize what all you can use it for you will kick yourself in the a$$ for not getting a good one because you will end up using it more than you think I have been welding for over 30 years for a living the only reason I don’t own one is because I can take it to work

I agree, once you get a tig machine and learn to use it, it's tough to drag out that stick welder.

 

[MR.T.]

I have an Eastwood tig welder, & I think it's great. But of course I don't have any experience with any other brand of machine.
From Eastwood, you can get their Eastwood 200 machine, add an argon bottle and have everything you need to get started for less than $1000.

 

[Cowcatcher]

I agree, once you get a tig machine and learn to use it, it's tough to drag out that stick welder.

I pretty much quit dragging the stick leads around the shop after we got the mig. Still have a couple jobs every once in a while for stick but rarely.

 

[Gunbuffer]

Always wanted a miller dynasty

 

[ConstitutionCowboy]

30 to 40 years ago I had Millers. I started with one that was about 175 AMP and shortly traded up to a 300 AMP. Loved both machines. The 300 AMP unit would go down to 5 amps and weld coke cans together! Both units were transformer type. Now, after a 30 year or so hiatus I bought a 200 AMP Lotos TIG unit. It does AC and DC. This unit is an inverter type, quiet, high frequency spark start, and is about perfect for what I do. I haven't had the opportunity to tig on some aluminum yet, but that should happen soon.

The price from Amazon was decent - mid range for the "class". There are cheaper units and some better units in the ballpark range, but if you are going to do heavy welding and/or for a living, I'd go with a Miller. I have next to no experience with a Lincoln - maybe a couple hours of stick welding years ago - so I can't give an honest opinion on them. I Don't know much about Hobart or any other higher end machines.

I've heard/read nothing but good about the Everlast units. I'd label them the top end of the "less expensive" units. Budgetary limitations put me in the mid range.

Regardless of whatever unit you buy, keep it as dust free inside as possible. Keep the louvers clean and unobstructed. I hear that they are subject to frying their innards if airflow is restricted. Blow them out as soon as you see any buildup.

Woody

 

[Snattlerake]

So if I wanted to do some brass, aluminum, mild steel artwork, which would be the best?

 

[Cowcatcher]

So if I wanted to do some brass, aluminum, mild steel artwork, which would be the best?

You asking which brand, or type of welder? I'd say if you're gonna do aluminum go with a tig. I've got a spool gun for my mig but it's a pain. I've stick welded aluminum on cattle pots a little and it's nothing pretty.

 

[Cowcatcher]

I might just hold off and buy a Miller. Won't be no daggum Dynasty for sure! I'll probably buy a new one because I don't trust people selling used stuff unless I know em or it's wayyy cheap. Plus, I keep telling myself in a patriotic voice "BUY AMERICAN"