What is the deal with 300 Blackout Price & Scarcity?

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harley128

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If you shoot 5.56/.223 save all the brass with damaged necks or get with a range and buy the damaged brass by the pound. There will be alot unusable but sell it for scrap. I did this with range brass I was picking up. When I built a 300BLK spent a afternoon cutting, resizing and trimming. Made about 500 usable brass that afternoon all from brass I would have discarded.
Do you know if I can use my Lee resizing die for this? I"m seeing conflicting reports on the interweb........ IE: to form the 223 brass into 300 BO ??
 

Shinneryfarmer

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Do you know if I can use my Lee resizing die for this? I"m seeing conflicting reports on the interweb........ IE: to form the 223 brass into 300 BO ??
Yes, I use lee resizing dies. Cut the brass at the shoulder where it starts to taper. Deburr, lube and resize then trim to length. Then deburr one more time and your ready to prime, drop powder and seat a bullet. Work out a system works best. Cut all brass, then deburr,resize then move to trimming all brass then deburr again. I understand they make a saw designed for cutting brass, a buddy used this and said it worked great. I have tried different ways but a bandsaw works best for me. Built a jig actually some scrap wood, and a wood guide on my bandsaw. I can line up 10 cases and run them thru. I can cut down 200 cases in about 15 minutes.
 
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harley128

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Yes, I use lee resizing dies. Cut the brass at the shoulder where it starts to taper. Deburr, lube and resize then trim to length. Then deburr one more time and your ready to prime, drop powder and seat a bullet. Work out a system works best. Cut all brass, then deburr, move to trimming all brass then deburr again. I understand they make a saw designed for cutting brass, a buddy used this and said it worked great. I have tried different ways but a bandsaw works best for me. Built a jig actually some scrap wood, and a wood guide on my bandsaw. I can line up 10 cases and run them thru. I can cut down 200 cases in about 15 minutes.
Thx man. Good info. I’m getting one of those Harbor Freight 2in table top chop saw.
 

El Pablo

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I thought it was the most popular cartridge for the AR platform after 223/556...maybe im wrong though. Really versatile round, easy to convert the gun to, etc...

I just sold my upper to a buddy today, also sold my 6.5 grendel upper today to a forum member. Feels good clearing 2 calibers off my shelves. If I had suppressors i would probably have kept it, but i dont so peace out.
I buy the ammo, then just buy an upper to match ;)
 

Shinneryfarmer

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Thx man. Good info. I’m getting one of those Harbor Freight 2in table top chop saw.
Using that saw may be a little more precise . So you can experiment on case cut length to save on trimming. I don't worry about it because I have a power trimmer. If you cut a little long when you resize them some will come out gnarly long looking especially if not cut straight. This is not a problem they will trim down to a usable case.
If you do not load them hot the cases will reload several times. I have 210 cases( for testing) that are on the 18th reload and no stress cracks or pressure signs. But I do not load near max.
 
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harley128

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Yes, I use lee resizing dies. Cut the brass at the shoulder where it starts to taper. Deburr, lube and resize then trim to length. Then deburr one more time and your ready to prime, drop powder and seat a bullet. Work out a system works best. Cut all brass, then deburr,resize then move to trimming all brass then deburr again. I understand they make a saw designed for cutting brass, a buddy used this and said it worked great. I have tried different ways but a bandsaw works best for me. Built a jig actually some scrap wood, and a wood guide on my bandsaw. I can line up 10 cases and run them thru. I can cut down 200 cases in about 15 minutes.
Are you saying I don't need to go thru all that BS about removing the decapping pin, and then putting it back in? Like I"m seeing on all these Youtube videos ? That would be great
 

Shinneryfarmer

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Are you saying I don't need to go thru all that BS about removing the decapping pin, and then putting it back in? Like I"m seeing on all these Youtube videos ? That would be great
Yes you do not have to remove decapping pin. Just be sure to lube cases. I've done 1000's and never removed it.
 

Shinneryfarmer

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Thanks once again.................!
Your welcome. Just a couple of things I thought about. If you have not loaded 300BO before you may be using new dies. So make sure decapping pin is tight, and lube it before first use. Hate for it to get stuck in very first case cause it wasn't tight just saying cause it happened to me.
 

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