Where to start? Reloading by a newbie.

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To the the OP you might consider loading a pistol caliber as a starting point. Straight wall cartridges like 38 special, 45acp, 9mm operate at much lower pressures than a rifle cartridge but still make you go through all the proper reloading steps. You are going to have to learn how to read and understand the recipes in the books, about powder and projectiles, seating depths, what over pressure looks like, and dozens of other things. If you make a mistake on a pistol caliber it is usually not quite as destructive or as life threatening.
 
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To the the OP you might consider loading a pistol caliber as a starting point. Straight wall cartridges like 38 special, 45acp, 9mm operate at much lower pressures than a rifle cartridge but still make you go through all the proper reloading steps. You are going to have to learn how to read and understand the recipes in the books, about powder and projectiles, seating depths, what over pressure looks like, and dozens of other things. If you make a mistake on a pistol caliber it is usually not quite as destructive or as life threatening.
I do own 3 45 Colt SSA clones that would probably work pretty well. I also have a Ruger Super Blackhawk in 44 mag that I was wanting to get some 44 Special for. I think starting off with Pistol cartridges might be the way to go.
 

magna19

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I do own 3 45 Colt SSA clones that would probably work pretty well. I also have a Ruger Super Blackhawk in 44 mag that I was wanting to get some 44 Special for. I think starting off with Pistol cartridges might be the way to go.
The pistol cartridge is a good choice for starting. But first get a reputable reloading manual or two, read front to back until you understand all of it.
 

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Presses
I prefer a single station press that load on the down stroke
O frames are nice. But up stroke c frames also work.

I would not start with a progressive press.



Nothing wrong with Lee presses for basic reloading.

If you start reforming brass to make obsolete shells you will want something more substantial and an O frame.

Work space
Some kind of sturdy bench with storage
A sweepable floor - no carpet.
Gunpowder and vacuum cleaners are not a good mix.
Locking storage to keep the irresponsible out of the powder.


Must haves
Press, dies, shell holder, powder scale

Need
Case trimmer and calipers to check shell lengths on bottle neck cases

Nice to have
Lube pads, shell blocks, powder drop, case polisher.

Extra fun
Bullet molds for the 32 and 375
With appropriate loads, alloy, and lubricants cast lead is a way to extend your shooting budget. The 32 was a cast lead design to start with and the 375 is very similar to the 38/55 which was a cast lead round.



I would start with a rimmed straight wall shell.

Of the calibers listed, 375 win is probably the simplest

It’s a relatively straight case.
You will use jacketed bullets to start and that simplifies things.

The 32 win is similar to the 30/30
The brass on a 30/30 is thin and can be a bit temperamental - easy to dent with excess case lube and easy to crush with a poorly aligned bullet
I would anticipate the same thing with the 32

The 348 is also worth reloading from a cost perspective. Basically a 50/70 necked down and loaded with smokeless powder. The steep bottleneck can cause crumpling issues so it’s not the place to start

The rimless shells require a bit more consideration especially in bolt actions. As with any bottle neck you need to decide if you are full length sizing or just neck sizing.

Case head separation is an issue to consider when reloading bottlenecks. Some actions handle case head separations well, others come apart. You need to understand how you loading die adjustment affects that concern and avoid it.
 

magna19

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Presses
I prefer a single station press that load on the down stroke
O frames are nice. But up stroke c frames also work.

I would not start with a progressive press.



Nothing wrong with Lee presses for basic reloading.

If you start reforming brass to make obsolete shells you will want something more substantial and an O frame.

Work space
Some kind of sturdy bench with storage
A sweepable floor - no carpet.
Gunpowder and vacuum cleaners are not a good mix.
Locking storage to keep the irresponsible out of the powder.


Must haves
Press, dies, shell holder, powder scale

Need
Case trimmer and calipers to check shell lengths on bottle neck cases

Nice to have
Lube pads, shell blocks, powder drop, case polisher.

Extra fun
Bullet molds for the 32 and 375
With appropriate loads, alloy, and lubricants cast lead is a way to extend your shooting budget. The 32 was a cast lead design to start with and the 375 is very similar to the 38/55 which was a cast lead round.



I would start with a rimmed straight wall shell.

Of the calibers listed, 375 win is probably the simplest

It’s a relatively straight case.
You will use jacketed bullets to start and that simplifies things.

The 32 win is similar to the 30/30
The brass on a 30/30 is thin and can be a bit temperamental - easy to dent with excess case lube and easy to crush with a poorly aligned bullet
I would anticipate the same thing with the 32

The 348 is also worth reloading from a cost perspective. Basically a 50/70 necked down and loaded with smokeless powder. The steep bottleneck can cause crumpling issues so it’s not the place to start

The rimless shells require a bit more consideration especially in bolt actions. As with any bottle neck you need to decide if you are full length sizing or just neck sizing.

Case head separation is an issue to consider when reloading bottlenecks. Some actions handle case head separations well, others come apart. You need to understand how you loading die adjustment affects that concern and avoid it.
Not saying others info is good or not good. But I will say this is good info for the OP being a new reloader.
 

magna19

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I had no one teach me but I did get a Lee classic reloader and it really got the basics down.

Classic Lee Loader​


For over 60 years, more shooters have chosen the famous Lee Loader for their first reloading tool than any other. They realize it is all they need for good, accurate ammunition. In fact, at one time ammunition loaded with a Lee Loader held a world record listed in the Guinness Book of World Records for more than seven years. Millions upon millions of rounds have been reloaded with the famous Lee Loader, and we expect it will continue to be a popular reloader for many years to come. It's the perfect tool for those who wish to simply try reloading, because it will pay for itself in just an hour or so.
The Lee Loader neck sizes only, use only with brass fired through your gun. You can reload a round in 30 seconds.
Find out for yourself how much fun it is to reload with the Lee Loader. Everything you need to begin loading one caliber and you'll save enough to pay for it in the first hour!

View attachment 332927

You will need a hammer and bullets primers and powder along with your brass though.
With all that was listed in OP I wouldn't start out with a neck size only tool.
 
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My go-to recommendation for a press for new reloaders is the Lee Classic Turret Press. You can run it as a single stage, or the auto index function using the auto disk powder measure really speeds up pistol loading. I use the turret for almost all of my rifle reloading, including magnum rounds. I have never had an issue.
 
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My go-to recommendation for a press for new reloaders is the Lee Classic Turret Press. You can run it as a single stage, or the auto index function using the auto disk powder measure really speeds up pistol loading. I use the turret for almost all of my rifle reloading, including magnum rounds. I have never had an issue.
I was gifted a Hornady single stage press for christmas. Well actually I gifted the Hornady Reloading Classic kit that comes with some other things as well but appears to be missing a lot of necessary things. I have a Hornady reloading book that I am going through.
 

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