1st time boat owner, MANY questions & issues

[crrcboatz]

A boat is a hope in the water you throw money into

Yeppers been there and did that! They never seem to quit costing you something!!!

 

[Shoot Summ]

1.) stored w/ brass drain plug left in, corroded and can't remove it! Boogered it up, tried a little heat, PB blaster, etc. Can't get good leverage on it due to angle/trailer in the way

You are likely going to have to drill it out at this point, or change out the plug/bung altogether.

2.) trailer has 5-plug flat, my truck has 4 plug. running lights work if I plug in the 4 but tail/brake lights do not. Is the 5th plug for the brake lights or for trailer brakes? Trailer has a master cyl on it that seemed to work by inertia but then again I don't have an electric brake controller in my vehicle. Perhaps the tail lights are just burned out bulbs or do I need an adapter from 5-to-4 plug for it all to work? Since I do not have electric brake controller, is it still good? How do I know if the trailer has electric brakes, the tongue seems to move and I KNOW the trailer brakes worked because I had to haul the boat 150 miles to bring it home.

3.) What "freeze plugs" or whatever on the motor/exhaust do I need to check/open/tighten, etc. to make sure this thing is safe to start on the trailer (I bought muffs but haven't tried this yet)

There are typically brass(be careful) plugs on each side of the block, remove them to drain all of the water from the block. I also loosen and pop loose all of the hoses just to be sure all of the water is out of the manifolds.

4.) Bad batteries, had 2 wired in some sort of sequence, I got 2 new ones I'm going to install tonight and hopefully see if everything works...why 2 batteries? It has some battery A/B/ALL switch on it so I guess the batteries power different things?

5.) How to charge batteries if cables are wired together where negative comes off battery 1 and goes to 2, etc...I can provide more details on how it is hooked up later but perhaps someone can tell me why 2 batteries.

6.) Batteries were "Dual purpose RV/Marine" so that is what I replaced them with instead of 1 starting and 1 deep cycle like I'd have suspected should be done in a boat with 2 batteries???

7.) Will "new" 5yr old oil be fine for a trip or two to the lake until I get time/proper tools to change it or is it a MUST to change the oil now?

I think it will be fine for a couple of outings, but I would change it soon.

8.) I was told it was winterized before being put away but I seriously doubt there is anti-freeze in the block and stuff...how does that work? Are you supposed to do that and then drain it in the spring or what? THIS BOAT WILL NOW BE STORED OUTSIDE FOR AT LEAST A FEW SEASONS (but it came with a factor cover that was never used thankfully).

Yes.

9.) I want to change the plugs, wires, cap, rotors, etc...can i get Chevy stuff from O'Reilly's or is the Marine stuff different...I think I've determined the plugs are for sure different and there are 3 options listed for that motor on the NGK website (which I have no idea which it is until I pull an old plug). But what about the other stuff...can I run Accel wires and cap/rotor or what?

Yes, some parts are exclusive, but most are just generic to the motor brand, my Volvo Penta is a 350 GM, I match out the parts to GM from the local parts store.

10.) I plan to change the lower unit oil but I'd like to forego this until after I at least get to take the boat out a time or two...is this a must? Can I check the level at least or must I change it since it sat so long?

The typical concern is water in the lower unit oil, in the dozens of times I've changed lower unit oil I've never seen any water, again, run it, then change it.

11.) I have become aware that there is a water pump impeller that needs to be changed out periodically to avoid failure. Is this in the lower unit to on the motor itself like a car? I'd like to wait to do this until this fall

The impeller is in a small housing driven by one of the belts on the motor, easy to change, sometimes hard to get to.

12.) Not sure yet how much 5yr old gas is in the tank, but I poured in a can of seafoam and planned to just top it off w/ fresh 91 octane non-ethanol gas??? Is that okay redneck style? I can't take too long to get this boat ready or my wife will be mad I spent the cash.

I don't typically sweat it about older gas, but 5 years is pretty old, depends how much is in there, but it could make it run pretty crappy, which is worse than delaying taking it out.

12.) What is the proper way to winterize this particular inboard/outboard boat? And what needs to be done in addition to what I've asked above for "de-winterization"?

I drop my lower unit in a very large tub and run the motor up to temp, then use fogging oil in the intake until the motor dies. Drain the water out of the block, and add antifreeze.

13.) What else do I need to look for/check before I attempt to take the family out on the boat for the first time???

Check the control cables, steering, all fluids, test run it before you take it out, don't use "flush muffs", that's the quickest way to kill the impeller. When you take it out don't venture too far from the ramp until you prove that it is running good.

 

[MavMatt]

The best two days of a boat owners life
1. The day you buy it
2. The day you sell it
Good luck man, the are fun sometimes and sometimes you wonder why you still have it

 

[OKCShooter]

No offense, but some of your questions are so elementary that I don’t feel that you are in a position to do the obvious required work that’s ahead.

It may be worth taking it in for a service and then go from there (or find a freelance mechanic that will come to you).

Owning boats really are quite expensive if you don’t have basic know-how and ability to problem solve...it’s always something wrong and usually you discover the problem is there right when you launch the boat for the day.

Getting the big motored boats gets worse, so at least you didn’t start with something more “needy” like my Baja Islander.

 

[rc508pir]

The best two days of a boat owners life
1. The day you buy it
2. The day you sell it
Good luck man, the are fun sometimes and sometimes you wonder why you still have it

Truer words were never spoken. Sold mine 10 years ago

 

[dennishoddy]

I'm going to second or third taking it to a reputable boat mechanic to make an inspection and get in running condition, plus get your wiring right for lights.
It will be money well spent.

 

[swampratt]

I have had many boats worked at a boat shop rebuilding the engines when they came in they called me.

It is not all that bad really. I do not care for inboards though as I like to fish sometimes when ice is on the rivers.

Take some brake fluid like a cap full and dip a 2" square piece of paper towel into it.
It will soak up the fluid.. place that on the plug you wish to remove and squeeze it so the fluid gets around the threads and wait 30 minutes and try removing it then.

If it does not come out no biggie as you can always pour straight antifreeze into the thermostat hole and keep the block from freezing up.
I usually put a shop vac in blow mode and suck mode and try and get all the water out if the plugs will not come loose.
Then pour antifreeze into it in the winter.. this is if the plugs do not come out.

Now never run it or even crank it over without the muffs on and water flowing.
Check the lower unit oil and top it off before you go out.
Old gas makes varnish and that stuff will clog jets and idle passages.. should have drained it.
And run it in a carburetor Ford. The Fords will drink anything. Or use it for weed killer.

Oil shelf life is not very long once the bottle is opened. Mobil 1 synthetic in the bottle shelf life is 10 years.. Open the bottle and it is 1 year.
Detergents and additives deplete rapidly once open or put in service. Call the 1800 number on the back of your oil and ask the questions.

Drain it and stick in some good oil. Joe Gibbs Driven hot rod oil would be what i would use as it is designed for long term storage and has a makeup that inhibits rust formation in vehicles that are parked for long periods.
Research it.

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/hr-10w-40-high-zinc-petroleum-hot-rod-oilhtml/

Do not store the boat with the lower unit pointing up.. trim it all the way down ..water can seep behind and into the lower unit and freeze and push the guts out and strip the lower unit..seen it happen.
If you do store it in the up in the winter then hang a bucket over it.. or put it under a shed.
Nose of the boat needs to be up during storage as water will collect in the boat.. it may not drain out and will water log the floor or any flotation foam in the floor.. makes for a very heavy boat.

Weather cracked tires need replaced.. get trailer tires heavy side wall..I still like my E load range biasplys.
But radial trailer tires will also work. Stiff sidewall keeps them from dog walking going down the road at highway speeds.
Inflate to the max rated on sidewall for a cooler running tire.. store tires out of the sun put a cover over them or prop plywood against them if you can.

I also like to store the parked boat off the tires (tires in the air).. : Jack stands under the frame or cut tree stumps if you have that.
That is for multiple months storage.. if you take it out every 2 months no big deal.

Batteries hooked positive to positive and negative terminal to negative terminal are still 12 volts.
Just hook your charger up to one of them and it will charge the pair at the same time.
Charge on a low setting like 2 amp.. high amp charges will sulfate the batteries.

Had a buddy that liked 50 amps to charge.. his batteries lasted a couple months.. he always cussed batteries.

I kept one battery for my boat in a daily driver vehicle tied in with my other battery ..it was charged and ready all the time.

See not all that hard

 

[sh00ter]

Thanks for the votes of confidence LOL...I found out it has an auto sump so as long as batteries charged, it will automatically turn on the bilge so that buys me time on the stuck drain plug. Also found out it has a hose connection in the motor compartment so no need for muffs when I do start it...I was going to fog real good with SeaFoam deep creep to hopefully free the rings if they are stuck. Also despite the tags being from 2013, was told tonight it has been 3 yrs sitting not 5, if that is the truth. Also found out the freeze plugs in the block are some sort of adjustable plugs that can be opened and closed and are not press-ins like on a car engine. He told me they are left loose while stored and to tighten them up before attempting to start it. Also found out the battery switch was installed and wired as the instructions that came with it said and it should just allow me to switch between batteries to power everything. He sold it to me for 3 grand below book and I confirmed that by a listing for the same boat in Texas asking thousands more than I paid. The interior has no tears and the hull is spotless...As long as it starts, I think I'll be okay. Also confirmed no electric brakes. I think I can do this, I just needed to know what all I needed to check before starting...I've changed lower unit oil on outboards before, and am a shade tree on my vehicles so I think I have the mechanical ability as long as I have the missing info...boat shop balked at helping so far that they are a month behind and don't work on volvos...I am feeling more confident now than before at least.

Already greased trailer bearings for I hauled it home, aired up tires which were low but not flat, no dry rot visible and they are holding air. Trailer bearings were replaced once during the 12yrs he owned the boat and bearing buddies installed at that time. Also was given a full sized spare in a rim with no dry rot.

Planning to change oil, fog cylinders, install new batteries, change lower unit oil, change plugs and give it a go. Still interested in any and all advice, thanks so far guys. I think I bought it right enough to make it worth the preparations.

 

[dennishoddy]

Amazing revelations in a couple of hours.
Hope the boat works out well for you.
I've not been without a boat in my entire life, be it owned by my parents or myself. They can challenge you mechanically.

 

[beardking]

The only advice I can give is to make sure that you have at least 1 paddle on board at all times. Especially with a boat that you are new to and are unsure of it being seaworthy. You may think I'm joking, but it may be necessary someday. Also a good tow rope.

Good luck and I hope you enjoy it more than I did.