1st time boat owner, MANY questions & issues

[okie362]

the difference in marine grade electronic components (primarily speaking of ignition parts) is that they are designed to eliminate/minimize the possibility of a spark in the engine compartment. Inboards are highly susceptible to ignition of gas fumes due to the inability of the engine compartment to self evacuate the fumes. It's worth the extra cost of those parts.

Never ever start the engine until you have ran the exhaust fan(s) for a few minutes to ensure evacuation of any fumes in the engine compartment. Also, if the engine is carborated you will notice the breather doesn't look like the one on your old Chevy pickup. This is for the same reason. It's constructed to minimize the possibility of an engine compartment fire. I have always highly recommended people open the engine compartment for the initial cranking for any outing. This is when the engine is cold, has sat a while and is most likely to not fire up immediately and possibly flood out filling the compartment with fumes.

I know I sound overly cautious about this but have on a couple occasions had to deal with the aftermath of an engine compartment explosion on the water. It's not good for anyone involved and the loss of the boat as it burns to the waterline is the very least of the agony.

 

[C_Hallbert]

the difference in marine grade electronic components (primarily speaking of ignition parts) is that they are designed to eliminate/minimize the possibility of a spark in the engine compartment. Inboards are highly susceptible to ignition of gas fumes due to the inability of the engine compartment to self evacuate the fumes. It's worth the extra cost of those parts.

Never ever start the engine until you have ran the exhaust fan(s) for a few minutes to ensure evacuation of any fumes in the engine compartment. Also, if the engine is carborated you will notice the breather doesn't look like the one on your old Chevy pickup. This is for the same reason. It's constructed to minimize the possibility of an engine compartment fire. I have always highly recommended people open the engine compartment for the initial cranking for any outing. This is when the engine is cold, has sat a while and is most likely to not fire up immediately and possibly flood out filling the compartment with fumes.

I know I sound overly cautious about this but have on a couple occasions had to deal with the aftermath of an engine compartment explosion on the water. It's not good for anyone involved and the loss of the boat as it burns to the waterline is the very least of the agony.

In 1966, I was on a Fishing Peer on the Bay Side of Jones Beach in New York. At around 2:00 am there was a huge, loud, fiery explosion over a mile out in the Great South Bay. It was too far to swim out to try to help. The Coast Guard responded from the West End Coast Guard Station in less than fifteen minutes. I could barely see the streams of water that they sprayed on the fire. However, the size and intensity of the blast probably left no survivors unless they were lucky enough to blown over the side.

I recalled a demonstration by a Coast Guard Power Squadron Instructor when I took a Basic Seamanship and Small Boat Handling Course that I took when I was fifteen. He placed two drops of gasoline with an eye dropper into a cannon-like tube that had a spark plug at the bottom and waited 15 seconds. When he fired the spark plug, the sound was deafening. He then asked us to imagine a leak down in the bilge, or in the inboard engine bay with just a small spark after quarts or gallons of gasoline that had time to evaporate. I saw what could happen that night from the peer. The lesson was:

#1
ALWAYS Open the Engine Compartment and Inspect for Possible Fuel Leaks Before Starting.

#2
ALWAYS Turn On Power Ventilation Fan to clear fumes from the Bilge and Engine Compartments for a few minutes before Starting an Inboard or Inboard/Outboard Engine!

Note- That Coast Guard Small Boat Handling Course has provided me discounted Boat Insurance ever since I was fifteen (I’m 71, now). It covered Power Boats below 66 Feet Length, Nautical Terminology, Required Safety Equipment, Marine Knots, Safe Anchoring Procedures, Aides to Navigation, Inland Waterways, Interpretation of Marine Charts, Basic Navigation (Compass Bearing vs True Heading-Coarse-Speed-Distance-Fuel Calculations-Current Vectors), Use of Sextant (Solar or Astrological Fixes and Navigational Tables, Marine Weather and Flag Warnings, Marine Radio Protocols and much more.

I greatly appreciate the opportunity to have taken this course and recommend that everyone who sets out on the Lakes, Rivers, Inland Waterways, Bays, Inlets, Gulf or the Oceans should take it not only for themselves but for those they love, care about or assume responsibility for when they take them out on the water. There was a Written Test at the end and I recall that not everyone passed it. I did and it amazes me how much I still remember, but then I’ve been boating all of my life.





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[dlbleak]

Okie362 and challbert make very good points. My boat is carborated and will diesel for a bit after coming off the throttle. I have to let it idle a little bit to burn off any fuel. Run the fans every time even at idle speed, it’s a good idea to run them.

 

[sh00ter]

Use the marine rated stuff like filters,electronics,etc. there is a difference. Interested to hear more about the water port in the engine bay.
I’ve had a couple boats since 97 or 98. Always stored indoors and babied. Our last trip where we lost the wheel off the trailer, when I pulled the plug there was oil in the water. It’s been to hot to check it out. I hope it’s not something serious,ugh!

The water flushing port is factory on the volvo pentas apparently. It worked great compared to figting the ear muffs to seal good...I did try both methods and when using the OEM flush port, the exhaust water was barely warm...when using the muffs the water exiting the rear of the boat got nice and hot...must be something different about introducing the cool hose water from the port vs. the lower unit.

I've always used regular oil filters, fuel filters, plugs, and ignition components with no issues. Some items like starters and alternators there is a difference. Curious what you believe is different about "marine grade" other than the cost, and sourcing? I can see where a boat used in saltwater might require some different components, but not fresh water.

I'm curious about the water port as well, might be a mod for my boat in the future...

Got the title yesterday and was given a spare 4 blade prop AND a brand new AC Delco regular oil filter for a 4.3 chevy truck. (PF52 I think?)...I'll see what my options are but it is very convenient to be able to get what I want from the parts store instead of boat dealer or having to order online. I'll prob use this AC filter since I have it.

If you anchor up in a cove and want to run electrical like stereo,finder, phone charging, etc. - switch the battery to “B” only.

Keeps “A” safe for starting if you run electrical all day.

Run on “A + B” so they both get charge while cruising.

That’s they way I’ve run mine with that same battery switch you’re talking about.

Thanks, I messed with the switch and got both batteries to work...I think your advice makes sense as the best method.

Found info on the hose adapter, made by Perko, reviews vary, many folks report issues with them coming apart, flooding the bilge...

Since this one is not an add-on, I'm hoping it will be fine; it is already 14yrs old but appears in good shape.

Okie362 and challbert make very good points. My boat is carborated and will diesel for a bit after coming off the throttle. I have to let it idle a little bit to burn off any fuel. Run the fans every time even at idle speed, it’s a good idea to run them.

RUN BLOWER ALL THE TIME WHILE BOAT RUNNING? Or just before I start motor and leave it on while idling until I am ready to cruise? Previous owner told me since it is carb it is cold natured and if it has sat in a cove for hours and then u start it u need to let it idle a bit before romping on it or it will die.

 

[dlbleak]

Just at start up or idle speeds. 4 blades are nice, really brought my midrange throttle response up. It’s been awhile but IIRC, you go up or down a pitch or two when changing from a 3 blade to a 4 blade.

 

[sh00ter]

Thanks, what about "whale tails"? I saw some at academy boast about horse power gains??? I know they help you get on plane faster...I may like one if someone can tell me more.

 

[Cowcatcher]

Thanks, what about "whale tails"? I saw some at academy boast about horse power gains??? I know they help you get on plane faster...I may like one if someone can tell me more.

You're probably gonna get different opinions on em. Some say they are useless. In my experience running the same boat with one and without one, I can say the boat gets up quicker and stays up at slower speeds. Those two things really help in fishing the Gulf bays. I can't say I noticed a hp difference. I've experienced the before and after on 3 different boats and I'd say it's money well spent for my type of boat use.

 

[sh00ter]

You're probably gonna get different opinions on em. Some say they are useless. In my experience running the same boat with one and without one, I can say the boat gets up quicker and stays up at slower speeds. Those two things really help in fishing the Gulf bays. I can't say I noticed a hp difference. I've experienced the before and after on 3 different boats and I'd say it's money well spent for my type of boat use.

Thanks for the explanation; they sell two different kinds at academy and they look quite a bit different, one is a "no drill"...I wonder between the two styles which is the better design.

 

[dlbleak]

Thanks for the explanation; they sell two different kinds at academy and they look quite a bit different, one is a "no drill"...I wonder between the two styles which is the better design.

The no drill is a clamp on sandwich style. I think it’s a good idea not to drill permanent holes in your outdrive if you want to go with a whale fin. I had a little searay many years ago that had one. Didn’t know how it ran without it because it was there when I bought the boat. I will say that if you have kids or grandkids that want to jump off the back of the boat while hanging out in a cove or something,it could get in the way.

 

[Cowcatcher]

Thanks for the explanation; they sell two different kinds at academy and they look quite a bit different, one is a "no drill"...I wonder between the two styles which is the better design.

https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/sti...tors?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions
This is the one we've used on the last two boats.