Amsoil Motor Oil

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I know this has probably been discussed numerous times but I am posting this anyway. My portable generator sprung an oil leak and it got people talking about using synthetic versus conventional in a small engine. Well this got me looking into this very topic a lot. Then I segued into vehicles. I was reading up on many different kind did motor oil. I have known about Amsoil for a while but have never tried it. Well, after what I read and the data I saw, I will be immediately switching to Amsoil! They have 3rd party testing that shows just how good it is against some of the top competition. I use Mobile 1 synthetic in both my vehicles and was very disappointed with how it performed. In some tests, it downright sucked. But in each test none came close to Amsoil. The next best on most tests was Royal Purple. Do any of y’all run this oil? What are your thoughts on it. Yes, it is extremely expensive but I don’t care about that. I want the best. I just wish I would have used this oil long ago. Now I do use a product called Tripak in my engines. I know the US distributor of it really well. Actually since I was a kid. This stuff is the real deal. If you have never heard of it, I suggest looking it up.

This is off topic a little bit but a friend of mine from work got a new silencer and came over to shoot this summer. I installed the muzzle device that came with it to his rifle. I didn’t get it on as tight as I should have and when it heated up after shooting it was on so tightly I couldn’t budge it. So the silencer was stuck to the muzzle break. I broke out some Tripak LDL 2 ( a penetration oil like WD40), and sprayed his muzzle device with it. It broke free with ease within a few seconds. My friend at work could not believe how well it worked. I have tested it on stuck bolts on my wife’s car before. The WD40 sat over night and wouldn’t loosen some rusted nuts. I sprayed it with LDL 2 and again within seconds it broke loose.

But back to oil, I will be using this oil on all my engines from here on out. To include my small engines. As far as using synthetic in a small engine, I never saw one bit of evidence or explanation as to why it shouldn’t be used in a small engine. The only thing I read was to not use it to break in an engine. But after the engine has been broken in, then full synthetic can be used without issue.
 
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I used to run Royal Purple in all my gas vehicles, but about a year ago I got turned onto Schaefers. I've been very happy with their products, they are pretty pricy but I feel that its worth it. Ive had my toyota since it had 40k on it, its now got 315k with no major issues. I like to think that spending the extra money on the better oil contributed to this.
 
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Royal purple on the shelf at the store is not the same as some of the stuff you order.
In a "race" engine Royal purple is frowned upon.

Could be they got the stuff on the local shelf.
I have had 2 friends switch to the shelf Purple and both lost their engines and the builder of the engine told both of them that Royal purple has destroyed many engines and they should never buy it.

I did test the shelf Royal purple in my Corolla back before 2007 and it got the same MPG as the Mobil 1 synthetic.
I was just leaving each oil and filter in the engine for 1,000 miles and testing MPG.

I figured if it reduced friction then MPG would increase.
I found this to be true and the smaller the engine the more difference it makes.
The MPG range was 27 to 35 MPG between different oils I tested.
Synthetic had the best MPG.
I tried Mobil 1 synthetic in different weights also.
0-20, 5-20, 5-30 and no gain in MPG with the lower weight.

My son would take the very clean used oil and put it in his Honda.
 

Okie4570

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Everyone will prob have a different oil success story, and few if any will have a failure story that could be solely blamed on the oil. Our 02' 7.3l powerstroke Excursion ran Rotella synthetic 5w40 in the winter and conventional 15w40 in the summers....our 03' f250 6.0l powerstroke ran Rotella synthetic year around. We sold both of them with way over 300k miles and running like new. My wife's 93' Grand Am that we both used to commute with, had almost 400k when we sold it to a HS kid for next to nothing, still ran great. All those miles on conventional Valvoline. I'm really not sure it matters.
 
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2007 is when the the Zinc was lowered.
Most oils even wal-mart brand was not all that terrible.

More about keeping good clean filters I would bet.

I had a 350 Olds from the 1972 era that did not have any ring ridge and standard bore with over 200,000 miles on it. I re ringed it and fresh standard bearings.
I built it for a buddy for another vehicle he had.
He did not put an air filter on it as he liked the way it sounded I told him he will ruin it with his off road driving around the lake.

Poor engine was covered in red dust after 6 months and knocking.
I took it all apart to build it and the bearings were shot, crank was worn down so much it had to take a .030 grind and the cylinder walls had a huge ridge.

6 months and he destroyed it.
No magic oil would have saved it.
 
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I've been using it for I don't even know how many years. I got to thinking and it has to be over 30 years now. I put their 100:1 two stroke oil in my brand spanking new Lawn Boy mower mixed at 2oz in 1 gallon which works out to about 85:1. I did that because it was just easier to mix 2oz instead of some partial oz quantity and it worked out even at the end of the bottle.

It didn't burn up so I kept doing that. Still didn't burn up and it ran great. That mower ended up falling apart around that little 2 stroke engine which was still running like it did the day I first fired it up years before.

Amsoil does what they say it does. Now I only change my oil once a year and don't even worry about the milage unless I approach 15,000 which I then pay attention to and change if necessary. When I was on the road every day I ran their 0W30 Series 2000 oil 28,000 miles on a change. That oil was rated for up to 35,000 mile change intervals (depending on driving conditions). I'd drop the filter, screw on another, top it off and continue on every 6 to 8k. UOA at the end said to change but only because the TBN had finally dropped, the wear metals and viscosity were all still good.
 

turkeyrun

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I concur, Okie4570

Successes. Dad never ran anything but Quaker State 30w. He bought a new Chevy pickup in '77. Sold it in '91, when he retired. I dont know the history from after the sale but, still see it driving it around town.

I used conventional oil up to '06. Not brand loyal, whatever was on sale, but name brand. Quaker, Penzoil, Castrol, Valvoline, whatever. On new engines, I added Slick50, after break-in.

I am running AMSOIL, in my pickup. The truck it replaced had Mobil 1 in it from from after break in to 228k, I had changed to the high mileage formulation at 165k. I changed oil every 15k, with filter change midway. When I got another truck, grandson got the old. He is still driving up, possibly on the same oil. I don't know for sure.
AMSOIL is going 25k between changes. I do change the filter around 8k.

Am I over spending ? Possibly, but the results are acceptable, to me.

Side note, I bought the AMSOIL gun cleaner and gun oil. Cleaned and oiled AR. Next range session, couldn't tell any difference. Final check, done 2 mag dumps. Flawless function, no gummy oil.
Expensive? I don't think so. I will continue to use it.

Engine oil is like arguing Semi vs revolver, 1911 vs Block, Ford vs Chevy vs Toyota , best caliber for deer, .45 vs 9mm, AR vs AK. Everything has their fan boys and haters.
 

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